https://thetravellinglight.com The Travelling Light Mon, 24 Oct 2022 16:55:46 +0000 https://thetravellinglight.com en https://thetravellinglight.com/Home Thu, 30 Jan 2020 19:03:18 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Home &nbsp; &nbsp;BEAM YOUR LIGHT PLEASE&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; FIND THE LIGHT WHAT IS THE TRAVELLING LIGHT?&nbsp; .thumbnails { padding-top: 7px!important; margin-top: -7px; } https://thetravellinglight.com/My-Capsule-Travel-Wardrobe-from-Conscious-Brands Fri, 17 Apr 2020 12:17:43 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/My-Capsule-Travel-Wardrobe-from-Conscious-Brands My Ethical, Sustainable Capsule Travel WardrobeMy Capsule Travel Wardrobe from Conscious Brands travel&nbsp; good things <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/74d8113a0507523700469a7040ecf08148ca82cef09f2f2d726aa0334425e9ee/protected-species-aosta-valley-3616.jpg" data-mid="198063475" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/74d8113a0507523700469a7040ecf08148ca82cef09f2f2d726aa0334425e9ee/protected-species-aosta-valley-3616.jpg" />In Protected Species’ Citywalker jacket. Over the years, I’ve managed to pull together what I think is a pretty minimalist travel wardrobe. It allows me to feel like me when I’m working as a photographer and travelling, balancing my love for fashion with the realities of living out of a suitcase. I sit here on my bedroom floor surrounded by piles of clothing, trying to pack for my annual pilgrimage home to Australia. The long trek from my small town in Italy will be 27 hours on a plane, not to mention the many hours it takes me to even get to Rome airport. These days I try to squeeze as much travel as possible out of a long distance flight; I’ll stay a month in my hometown Brisbane, a month in Bali and a few weeks in Southern India before coming home to Italy. I’ll be away almost three months, working online as I go.Packing for a long trip like this always feels like a gargantuan task, across three different countries and climates, daily life will be pretty different in each one. But I like to think I’ve got it downpat by now. I’ve figured out the versatile pieces making up my travel capsule wardrobe that can take me from exploring and shooting around cities to hours spent on planes and trains, to the beach and to the yoga studio, to hiking mountains and navigating waterfalls. I’ve learnt to shop with restraint and intention for the benefit of my bank account and luggage allowance, but also because I believe in buying less but buying well. I’ve built up a list of my go-to ethical, sustainable brands from around the world that I invest in every year or so, pieces that serve multiple purposes and settings, and go with just about everything else I own.These brands design their pieces and production processes consciously in whatever ways they can to minimize their footprint, designing trendproof, quality things that are made to last, produced in small quantities by ethically-run factories. This is my travel uniform, mixing and matching a small number of key items that make me happy and are well and consciously made. Waterproof Jackets – Protected SpeciesUK <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9b5cf53ac50c6c7c70b3a38d5146107900e4df5369a6f935d2db704f981bcb5f/protected-species-aosta-valley-3688.jpg" data-mid="198064172" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9b5cf53ac50c6c7c70b3a38d5146107900e4df5369a6f935d2db704f981bcb5f/protected-species-aosta-valley-3688.jpg" /> In Protected Species in the Aosta Valley, Northern Italy. This lightweight waterproof jacket from new UK brand Protected Species is a recent and treasured addition to my travel wardrobe, resolving the always-difficult packing dilemna of which one jacket I’ll take with me when I go away. I wore my City Walker jacket trekking in the Italian alps at the tail end of September as the weather was cooling down, but can already see myself donning this travelling to the UK to visit friends in London where the foldaway hood will come in handy, or covering up on a scooter in Bali during the rainy season. It’s the perfect “to and from the airport” layering coat too when escaping the Nothern Hemisphere winter for warmer weather, when I don’t want to cart a big winter jacket around with me.Produced in limited quantities, the designer, Rebecca, works closely with a small, ethical factory who adhere to stringent air, water and pollution control, and using fabrics which are Oeko Tex-certified. With neutral colours that blend in with nature as much as a cityscape, anything that does double duty as my outer protective layer as well as a stylish yet very waterproof raincoat, makes this the only jacket I’ll need to pack travelling in the warmer and in-between months. It weighs nothing and folds away into my carry-on or suitcase for the flight there and back. I know I’ll always be prepared for anything with this seriously versatile yet beautiful women’s waterproof coat. Visit Protected Species &amp; check out the Citywalker jacket. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/dd747f489a376ec13cefdb35052da4ec209efd101b1a7eff04a7d6c79d378226/protected-species-aosta-valley-4239_1.jpg" data-mid="198064295" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/dd747f489a376ec13cefdb35052da4ec209efd101b1a7eff04a7d6c79d378226/protected-species-aosta-valley-4239_1.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2b2e4b65ba4d9939f2e10299f21367bcfb035b9c4a0d7c783ca97c74cc2cda2f/protected-species-aosta-valley-3182.jpg" data-mid="198064296" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2b2e4b65ba4d9939f2e10299f21367bcfb035b9c4a0d7c783ca97c74cc2cda2f/protected-species-aosta-valley-3182.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6762e834fa95c47fd2a287d261f7d9387b85b97b806292b476bdf71661cca253/protected-species-aosta-valley-4523-2.jpg" data-mid="198064181" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6762e834fa95c47fd2a287d261f7d9387b85b97b806292b476bdf71661cca253/protected-species-aosta-valley-4523-2.jpg" /> Travel &amp; Trekking Sandals — Le Frattesi Italy <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d5964481547e4aee1bcd282d6f3866b5e088e46d04e97a066c6c27c78d7fc5c8/fuerteventura-katie-mcknoulty-1973.jpg" data-mid="198065979" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d5964481547e4aee1bcd282d6f3866b5e088e46d04e97a066c6c27c78d7fc5c8/fuerteventura-katie-mcknoulty-1973.jpg" />In Fuerteventura, Canary Islands. These hiking sandals in beige go with every colour and outfit in my wardrobe, meaning I can wear them in transit, to the beach, out for a casual meal, or even hiking with a pair of socks on too (I’ve even worn them on the plane with thick socks). This made-to-order hiking shoe brand, Le Frattesi, (co-founded by my partner, Filippo) works in collaboration with a small 150-year-old shoemaking factory in the town where I live in central Italy to handmake beautiful yet functional hiking boots and sandals. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ce66f3200d28ea43806b9f5979a73546b5e05cef4403acd810c06aabec19f957/_IV_4019.jpg" data-mid="198066265" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ce66f3200d28ea43806b9f5979a73546b5e05cef4403acd810c06aabec19f957/_IV_4019.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/198f8b94a507b0b35cea19400592d5a5c63ddadfa1e1bb8c9384f14a63f7efe5/le-frattesi-bali-katie-mcknoulty-1873.jpg" data-mid="198552869" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/198f8b94a507b0b35cea19400592d5a5c63ddadfa1e1bb8c9384f14a63f7efe5/le-frattesi-bali-katie-mcknoulty-1873.jpg" /> The biggest plus of these sandals is that I can bring one pair of shoes with me in my suitcase when take my annual big trip to Australia and Asia to escape the Nothern Hemisphere winter, maybe with a pair of running shoes thrown in too, drastically cutting down on the space and weight normally reserved for shoes in my luggage. The hiking-grade grip on the soles means I can hike in them, walk for miles with my backpack or suitcase, but also feel like I have a beautiful pair of shoes to put on. Plane Plants &amp; Yogawear — Studio K.Indonesia <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b82f0c59fdece869c0e1517977e7702d90158e3ea2a1ac69f9b579fc3531a220/protected-species-aosta-valley-3588.jpg" data-mid="198064152" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b82f0c59fdece869c0e1517977e7702d90158e3ea2a1ac69f9b579fc3531a220/protected-species-aosta-valley-3588.jpg" />In the Aosta Valley, Italy. These dark chocolate flared yoga pants by Studio K. are without a doubt my most comfortable pants, I also feel pretty cool and put-together wearing them. They started out as the perfect pants to wear on plane trips and to yoga, their remit slowly expanding until they became my never-taking-them-off pants I now wear almost every day in my small town in Italy. I have two pairs now on rotation and I even wear them hiking. Started by an earth-loving Swedish couple living in Bali, Studio K. use only organic fabrics—mostly bamboo and hemp—and dyes in their handcrafted, eco-friendly yoga and loungewear produced by a small, ethical, woman-owned local factory in Bali. Everything is designed to be functional, sophisticated and timeless enough to be worn anywhere, inspired by 70s leisurewear. If you find yourself in Ubud or Canggu in Bali, drop in to one of their beautiful stores or visit their online shop. Organic Cotton Underwear &amp; Tees — NICO Australia <img width="1440" height="1800" width_o="1440" height_o="1800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/edf165ad3f055e8f59550aa6400d19e695c9efccfa19599228e0fdde2606361d/312011099_420300800276968_970569106002526575_n.jpg" data-mid="198410153" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/edf165ad3f055e8f59550aa6400d19e695c9efccfa19599228e0fdde2606361d/312011099_420300800276968_970569106002526575_n.jpg" /> <img width="1440" height="1800" width_o="1440" height_o="1800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2c07926838d9456d6c81707f728137ba91f87420382ae8529135d7960f11ca2d/309357235_797555941469401_5859877730625040661_n.jpg" data-mid="198548502" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2c07926838d9456d6c81707f728137ba91f87420382ae8529135d7960f11ca2d/309357235_797555941469401_5859877730625040661_n.jpg" /> These plant-dyed, organic cotton underwire bras and underpants from NICO are the only underwear I own and wear. The bras are designed by specialist lingerie designers, offering a mix of support and comfort whilst also being something special I love to wear with the matching pants. Most importantly, there’s no padding in the bras, just structured cotton which is surprisingly hard to find, especially in Italy where the push-up bra reigns supreme. The bras and undies (as we call them in Australia) dry pretty quickly if I have to do a last-minute handwash in my hotel bathroom sink, and the all-natural material means they’re breathable and light in hot climates.The muted pastels reflect nature—lavender purple, rose pink, sky blue, plant green and sunlight yellow (this is my neutral)—and are repeated in the perfect crew neck t-shirts I also find great for travel. Light as well as kind to my skin, the tees tuck perfectly into a pair of denim shorts or jeans or sit well over yoga pants. This Australian brand works in close collaboration with their GOTS-certified ethical, sustainable factory in India who specialise in the production of underwear, helping to create safe and fair employment opportunities within the industry in India that is the livelihood of so many. Backpacks — Millican UK <img width="1750" height="1200" width_o="1750" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6ff9b3fcd74db7bd5e3e5619d80ab3896015ff3c571a949975e642668308679e/IMG_3816-varkala-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="198549157" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6ff9b3fcd74db7bd5e3e5619d80ab3896015ff3c571a949975e642668308679e/IMG_3816-varkala-the-travelling-light.jpg" />In Varkala, India. I’ve travelled with this&nbsp;Millican bag as my carry-on backpack for 10 years now without the need to replace it yet. It saved me from a band of pickpockets on the Paris metro with its tricky hidden pockets and I always feel safe carrying my laptop, camera and passport around in this, it’s truly an impenetrable fortress. There are so many inner and secret outer compartments that help me keep my things safe and organized. The roll-top means it expands and contracts easily according to how much or little stuff I need on the trip too. The backpacks and shoulder bags come in muted, earthy colours like dark green, soft orange-yellow, beige and black, very understated and stylish. They&nbsp;make many different sizes and styles of backpacks too so my next goal is to invest in one of their larger backpacks (28-32 litres) for shorter trips. Working with a small, considered network of specialist makers both in the UK and further abroad, they’re committed to fair pay and working conditions, and sustainability. They build their products to last a lifetime, which I can attest to personally, using natural or recycled materials, and they also offer repair support. Natural Fibre Tees, Skivvies &amp; Yogawear — Vegethreads Australia <img width="1340" height="2000" width_o="1340" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0d6a5c78f3ed04320a8f9945618191bf9d4a10671beb94f8f8a0ac1692528dc4/_MG_2366-vegethreads-the-travelling-light.jpeg" data-mid="198549229" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0d6a5c78f3ed04320a8f9945618191bf9d4a10671beb94f8f8a0ac1692528dc4/_MG_2366-vegethreads-the-travelling-light.jpeg" /> <img width="1340" height="2000" width_o="1340" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/544c0a01a132c1f74ab197e170f4d9481bbfd4460ea65e220e69565dace8cc64/_MG_2315-vegethreads-the-travelling-light.jpeg" data-mid="198549230" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/544c0a01a132c1f74ab197e170f4d9481bbfd4460ea65e220e69565dace8cc64/_MG_2315-vegethreads-the-travelling-light.jpeg" /> I started off buying Vege Threads’ yoga gear and slowly started to fill my wardrobe with their organic, natural fibre basics—merino wool, cotton and hemp—in planty-dyed earthy shades. From yoga pants and tops to cotton tees and silky merino wool turtlenecks, to the stylish yet functional gaucho pants, to the bright “sun socks” adding a pop of colour to neutral travel outfits, all of my Vege Threads pieces work hard in my travel wardrobe. What’s more, they continue to look beautiful through many, many washes and wears in my personal experience and the beautiful yet simple designs mean they stand the test of time on every level.All of their garments are made onshore and local to the brand in Melbourne, Australia, meaning they work closely with their makers, from knitting mills to dye houses, using organic and eco-friendly materials and dyes and producing in limited numbers.&nbsp; Wear Everywhere Swimwear — Pale Swimwear Spain <img width="1440" height="1800" width_o="1440" height_o="1800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/324f5b6dec2e0535702bc7f8ac6cd1526fa2e1d11c68bed5e0845fe9871f2dba/301961884_610736363950436_3930894500639562533_n.jpg" data-mid="198066992" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/324f5b6dec2e0535702bc7f8ac6cd1526fa2e1d11c68bed5e0845fe9871f2dba/301961884_610736363950436_3930894500639562533_n.jpg" /> <img width="1440" height="1800" width_o="1440" height_o="1800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ad3923372f8637c95bcec6e5b84280ea6684cc739a7629fe349d3527dc99eb36/301623143_1414424746045998_5636368880788166228_n.jpg" data-mid="198066991" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ad3923372f8637c95bcec6e5b84280ea6684cc739a7629fe349d3527dc99eb36/301623143_1414424746045998_5636368880788166228_n.jpg" /> All my swimwear is from Barcelona-based, independent swimwear brand Pale Swimwear, from one-pieces I can wear with shorts and a light button up to and from the beach to cute retro high-waisted bikinis, always in cool, unique prints in subtle colours. I love that many of the designs feature underwire support, taking cues from lingerie design, without the bulbous thick padding that never seems to dry. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4b83ada0b00ef7a7f9018a42615fe01a50c84675591fe129e26d47d7cbeb7b42/le-frattesi-bali-katie-mcknoulty-0865.jpg" data-mid="198552814" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4b83ada0b00ef7a7f9018a42615fe01a50c84675591fe129e26d47d7cbeb7b42/le-frattesi-bali-katie-mcknoulty-0865.jpg" /> In Nusa Penida, Lombok. The quality, thick stretch fabric offers extra structure that holds you in and up in all the right places and it lasts a long time; in my experience these swimsuits will stay looking beautiful and substantial for many seasons and wears. With a strong focus on both technical production and quality, Pale collections are entirely designed and made in Barcelona using premium, locally-sourced materials. Crochet Dresses &amp; Shirts — All That Remains Australia <img width="1440" height="1800" width_o="1440" height_o="1800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a32b98e7105484960db99cc011fe755b347a973bce84a9db1a0dbe7953e474d2/280582735_125884750085285_553186661639636980_n.jpg" data-mid="198067076" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a32b98e7105484960db99cc011fe755b347a973bce84a9db1a0dbe7953e474d2/280582735_125884750085285_553186661639636980_n.jpg" /> In All That Remains &amp; Le Frattesi in Uluwatu, Bali. OK this last one is maybe a bit of an indulgence in that a rainbow crochet dress will obviously never go with everything. But I figure I’m allowed one item for going out that I’ll always feel special in and this is it.Australian brand All That Remains create forever pieces—dresses, button ups and pants in crochet, delicate lace and batik prints—in limited numbers, with a non-mass produced, low impact philosophy. Since the brand's inception, they’ve worked with a local, family-run, ethically certified factory in Indonesia, the makers’ skilled craftsmanship evident in every handmade piece. They make the kind of special, quality statement pieces I can imagine handing down to someone decades from now. ⋆ ☾ ⁺₊ I hope this list has introduced you to some independent, conscious, cool brands you may not have heard of yet, and that it might help you to buy quality pieces you can travel with that you’ll love and wear and wear for years to come. Thank you to Protected Species for supporting The Travelling Light and sponsoring this article. https://thetravellinglight.com/An-October-Road-Trip-in-Albania-Tirana Mon, 24 Oct 2022 16:55:46 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/An-October-Road-Trip-in-Albania-Tirana Bagni San Filippo Thermal Springs in Tuscany, ItalyAn October Road Trip in Albania: Tirana travel&nbsp; albania <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1de510421ceb3ee9da10ec3332fced68afc104d8d807b917ff2af36fab403f7a/albania-9466.jpg" data-mid="156824237" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1de510421ceb3ee9da10ec3332fced68afc104d8d807b917ff2af36fab403f7a/albania-9466.jpg" /> All I knew of Albania was that I didn’t know much about it, and that’s what enticed me to visit. What I discovered was a cool, old-meets-new capital, some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, plenty of untouched nature, welcoming locals and UNESCO World-Heritage-preserved towns. Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty There weren’t a lot of Albania-geotagged photos popping up in my Instagram feed or even very many articles on the travel websites I regularly scour. Nevertheless I’d heard good things from friends about Albania and the possibility of a short, cheap flight to the capital, Tirana, from my nearest airport in central Italy was all the encouragement I needed to book a trip with my partner, Filippo. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7af57b8ca26b5c97388a8207f967bd85c94715a91824fcb009fee2b88cac4ead/albania-9270.jpg" data-mid="158468434" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7af57b8ca26b5c97388a8207f967bd85c94715a91824fcb009fee2b88cac4ead/albania-9270.jpg" /> Views over Tirana city. I had a suspicion it wasn’t just me who didn’t know much about this small country in the Balkans. For a nation that was closed to the world from 1945 to 1985 under the authoritarian rule of communist dictator Enver Hoxha, Albania remained near impossible to visit (or leave for citizens) for forty years. The word on travel here seems to have been relatively slow to get out since the 1991 revolution and the country’s reintegration with the modern world. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4d005b825cbccc7cc9dbf97b3248e9cc45d4390b11ba4e84860c4c5a7d134e65/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9510.jpg" data-mid="156824232" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4d005b825cbccc7cc9dbf97b3248e9cc45d4390b11ba4e84860c4c5a7d134e65/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9510.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/93fc274d816c9a34eead9f76071a30a26f580f64a4a2279dcf2f1311af541fb5/albania-9381.jpg" data-mid="158468430" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/93fc274d816c9a34eead9f76071a30a26f580f64a4a2279dcf2f1311af541fb5/albania-9381.jpg" /> Skanderberg square in central Tirana. But that’s a part of what’s cool about Albania in the first place. As a tourist destination, it’s not overly-popular, yet. And I never felt like one of the tourist masses here, more an anthropologist observing a culture that was, for me anyway, very foreign, having never visited a Balkan country before.It also feels like a very unique experience to see how a country evolved under the shadow of such an oppressive government and how it’s emerged since. Having been cut-off from the world for so long, the country seems to have retained its own cultural identity; visiting Albania feels like you’re visiting another world and often, another time.Our first stop on our weeklong roadtrip was the Albanian capital, Tirana, named European Youth Capital for 2022. Everything from accomodation to eating and drinking is affordable here and the city is filled with cool bars, brunch cafes and restaurants and museums and galleries aplenty, both old and new, staid and quirky. It’s a hub for digital nomads and more adventurous travellers for all these reasons and more. Day 1Having arrived the night before, we wake up in our&nbsp;Airbnb just north of the river, between hipster neighbourhood Blloku and the city centre as all the spots I want to visit seem to be split between the two areas. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/39edc71d9f8542602f6820bf0152a712aac3119afc27b153d4613d559d58d48d/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-8976.jpg" data-mid="156824768" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/39edc71d9f8542602f6820bf0152a712aac3119afc27b153d4613d559d58d48d/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-8976.jpg" /> Left: Yellow October autumnal leaves from our Airbnb window. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1505ede955cdfa5c104477e9a2702cc566e0c6707ce2375a9602e3f150a7300e/_IV_8979.jpg" data-mid="156824210" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1505ede955cdfa5c104477e9a2702cc566e0c6707ce2375a9602e3f150a7300e/_IV_8979.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6418a831d900cd197a45d56f9c1d6efaf1a8233edf3f19fb929959967d9d47ea/tirana-albania-1717.jpg" data-mid="158361069" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6418a831d900cd197a45d56f9c1d6efaf1a8233edf3f19fb929959967d9d47ea/tirana-albania-1717.jpg" /> Our Airbnb down this little alleyway. We start the day in Skanderberg Square, a colossal open plaza in the middle of the city. The sheer size of it strikes me with awe, the surrounding mountains backdrop the scene as they seem to everywhere I go in Tirana. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/df14f7f568c561758a89ac420f55526bb3a087e978c05658c2c07c3810c600e1/albania-9232.jpg" data-mid="158478110" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/df14f7f568c561758a89ac420f55526bb3a087e978c05658c2c07c3810c600e1/albania-9232.jpg" /> <img width="5472" height="3648" width_o="5472" height_o="3648" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/268e7fe3f5b2e03204b199e8cf7e2acabe9f778939656a4fc1b146e88521f052/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9059.jpg" data-mid="156824192" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/268e7fe3f5b2e03204b199e8cf7e2acabe9f778939656a4fc1b146e88521f052/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9059.jpg" /> Skanderberg Square. We head to the&nbsp;National Historical Museum to try to get a handle on Albania’s complicated history. From antiquity (and showing off some pretty cool ancient artifacts—jewellery, ceramics, painful-looking weapons of war) through to World War II and the subsequent rise of the authoritarian regime, it’s an interesting and at times strange museum. Sometimes the captions are translated into English, sometimes they’re inexplicably not. The entire 40-year dictatorship era isn’t translated and we leave desperate for more information.&nbsp;Even with this first stop at the museum, I can already tell this place is so far from a tourist disneyland; everything seems genuine, the overly-polished veneer often painted over tourist sites for the Western eye doesn’t seem to be a thing here. And I think I like it. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9b2b98c269351af61cad6cbbd15f811d5d299221f4f6e4aca4e0a8ad721b7197/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9377.jpg" data-mid="156824234" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9b2b98c269351af61cad6cbbd15f811d5d299221f4f6e4aca4e0a8ad721b7197/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9377.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/030592d5d492ead168013b40d38a83139e84bfbe77107bbfc2d40af2e0d4d1f6/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9074.jpg" data-mid="156824195" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/030592d5d492ead168013b40d38a83139e84bfbe77107bbfc2d40af2e0d4d1f6/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9074.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d78a11b2a2466d5710fb63d8e969239ea9c547c3a184950e304613e6d5be8557/tirana-albania-9081.jpg" data-mid="158361049" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d78a11b2a2466d5710fb63d8e969239ea9c547c3a184950e304613e6d5be8557/tirana-albania-9081.jpg" /> The National Historical Museum in Skanderberg Square. After a quick lunch at a cafe along the converted 13th-century Tirana Castle&nbsp;corso, we stroll along the pretty pedestrian street where I buy some tiny wooden spoons and then drool over the ceramics at&nbsp;Porcelain Studio Seferi, with a quick stop at Pazari i Ri Bazaar&nbsp;after. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3b74215a58716d9fee49197692b97b5925cd1cb4cf3a694064b6dcc5a9dfe093/albania-9021.jpg" data-mid="156824213" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3b74215a58716d9fee49197692b97b5925cd1cb4cf3a694064b6dcc5a9dfe093/albania-9021.jpg" />Porcelain Studio Seferi. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/706a2463d525e64d84fd7eb8a7c44e7770504142f0be31e534b0b1869cd12824/tirana-albania-9121.jpg" data-mid="158361099" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/706a2463d525e64d84fd7eb8a7c44e7770504142f0be31e534b0b1869cd12824/tirana-albania-9121.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5a70ecb82705126c3c35aa37d25a16cba5621cfe32ad40e0264b2ec673c3042d/tirana-albania-9119.jpg" data-mid="158363804" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5a70ecb82705126c3c35aa37d25a16cba5621cfe32ad40e0264b2ec673c3042d/tirana-albania-9119.jpg" /> <img width="3489" height="5233" width_o="3489" height_o="5233" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/307dd08d24511f839c05e1aa6ef1a2629c23fbb3fe6d9643a3ff552b4c3e9edc/tirana-albania-9123.jpg" data-mid="158361095" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/307dd08d24511f839c05e1aa6ef1a2629c23fbb3fe6d9643a3ff552b4c3e9edc/tirana-albania-9123.jpg" /> Scenes at Pazari i Ri Market including, right, expired Albanian passports for sale. Walking the streets, we pass stands holding underground-rave appropriate sunglasses, retro-looking postcards, men selling fresh flowers and used books and women roasting corn and chestnuts over hot coal braziers. We giggle at boutiques touting clearly-fake gucci loafers and chanel suits brazenly in their window displays; we discuss whether the cheap loafers would make good house slippers. <img width="3196" height="4794" width_o="3196" height_o="4794" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b552fda39265bde5bdbb3a8acc84eafb83d28175bfe336589c96cd7cd51f4681/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9159.jpg" data-mid="156824205" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b552fda39265bde5bdbb3a8acc84eafb83d28175bfe336589c96cd7cd51f4681/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9159.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2db7fd7d0fc4e77acc1725aa09344e2f8cc6988dde92f8dd02b96f1f0aaec031/albania-9154.jpg" data-mid="156824113" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2db7fd7d0fc4e77acc1725aa09344e2f8cc6988dde92f8dd02b96f1f0aaec031/albania-9154.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/073ee123cb20627ad3d16e84ffaebdfe40779e68db63c70d29c27b5fc60e9ecb/albania-9220.jpg" data-mid="156824214" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/073ee123cb20627ad3d16e84ffaebdfe40779e68db63c70d29c27b5fc60e9ecb/albania-9220.jpg" /> We see graphic, modern architecture and brightly coloured buildings, as well as crumbling apartment blocks and precarious power lines that seem in danger of collapse. Well-dressed older gentlemen in three piece brown tweed suits and hats stroll next to gen-z same-sex couples who wouldn’t look out of place in Berlin or London. Tirana’s specific flavour of old-meets-new, that juxtaposition you find in any capital city, starts to show itself to me. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/91bd2ad3a05ae58b883004099cab177f0f9223e60fc05f0d4dcbaf95207078dd/albania-9140.jpg" data-mid="156824112" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/91bd2ad3a05ae58b883004099cab177f0f9223e60fc05f0d4dcbaf95207078dd/albania-9140.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0a524a3c10b03df6af78118e7014a3bcdc2fbdb824151c5ca5b5f21a7bd2f9f6/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9179.jpg" data-mid="156824129" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0a524a3c10b03df6af78118e7014a3bcdc2fbdb824151c5ca5b5f21a7bd2f9f6/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9179.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f0b78d20270c18e0f1b356ff2a34d59bac1feae3076b892917d812c2ab6a0c2a/_IV_9027.jpg" data-mid="156824111" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f0b78d20270c18e0f1b356ff2a34d59bac1feae3076b892917d812c2ab6a0c2a/_IV_9027.jpg" /> We spend the afternoon at Bunk’Art 2 in pursuit of the missing information on those 40 years of dictator Enver Hoxha’s rule. Staged underground inside a communist era bunker, the eerie, immersive museum takes us through pokey, cell-like rooms one-by-one. Each details a different element of the regime’s rule: secret police, propaganda, spying neighbours, major corruption, manipulated photography as evidence against “the enemy”, torture and more. The bunker was designed and set up as a war room during those years but was never used, the decor remains untouched. <img width="3495" height="5243" width_o="3495" height_o="5243" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5fbb0d18e8e237790667acb5d1b1b25cadc801c1ee7c038a42891f45b274bf5c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9048.jpg" data-mid="156824220" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5fbb0d18e8e237790667acb5d1b1b25cadc801c1ee7c038a42891f45b274bf5c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9048.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3ca9d5686accfa0ef0137b4c273884a5e2292844ed84eb277d6a9a71cdfdb8d2/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9041.jpg" data-mid="156824238" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3ca9d5686accfa0ef0137b4c273884a5e2292844ed84eb277d6a9a71cdfdb8d2/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9041.jpg" /> Left: Bunk’Art 2, set inside a disused underground bunker leftover from Albania’s communist era. Right: The Albanian flag. For our first night out, we head to the Blloku neighbourhood and have a drink at Radio Bar. I’m&nbsp;pleasantly surprised when we’re led to a pretty indoor/outdoor courtyard in back, past an impressively-stocked bar. I order the Al-groni, a negroni made with local botanical gin, it’s delicious but very strong, I struggle to get up from the table after. Stumbling next door to the Blloku outpost of Era, we reserve a table; the waiter tells us it’ll be 20 minutes and it only takes five, another tick for this capital city. We order all the vegetarian options—baked haloumi, feta with roasted vegetables, hummus, yoghurt dip, rice and bread—as an introduction to Albanian cuisine and devour every dish with glee.Day 2 We start the day, a Saturday, passing the very much under-construction Pyramid of Tirana, formerly the Enver Hoxha Museum, which is being converted into a public park and shopping mall. On the streets, there are lots of stalls open for business, cool people brunching and a general weekend feeling in the air. <img width="3452" height="5178" width_o="3452" height_o="5178" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/762dcde69678645484b3e2ec1cb63e6e1b32fe34c9feaeaa1718f8b1b80a08ff/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9219.jpg" data-mid="156824218" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/762dcde69678645484b3e2ec1cb63e6e1b32fe34c9feaeaa1718f8b1b80a08ff/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9219.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c724d67079b954ab92b439c906c360b22a6d24d7a997a4c68ee76c29f95b37e3/_IV_9130.jpg" data-mid="156824211" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c724d67079b954ab92b439c906c360b22a6d24d7a997a4c68ee76c29f95b37e3/_IV_9130.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/227c2ca60e625c9bde5b723975b1f4e79869c0add60cf430596c4c75a82ce8b7/_IV_8987.jpg" data-mid="156824209" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/227c2ca60e625c9bde5b723975b1f4e79869c0add60cf430596c4c75a82ce8b7/_IV_8987.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/808cd8b3951cffd1447cf3b07373c160ae63815b66a84deacc81cc9d7cc20b6c/albania-9016.jpg" data-mid="156824212" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/808cd8b3951cffd1447cf3b07373c160ae63815b66a84deacc81cc9d7cc20b6c/albania-9016.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6d84c728998c8f8cf4db768467eac5863abcfd120f27358a045c4b778dd5e371/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9196.jpg" data-mid="156824227" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6d84c728998c8f8cf4db768467eac5863abcfd120f27358a045c4b778dd5e371/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9196.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1104eb6584ba6671494914c59c2bc41aeff626768a3b81fe45496dea4c1aa17d/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9171.jpg" data-mid="156824226" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1104eb6584ba6671494914c59c2bc41aeff626768a3b81fe45496dea4c1aa17d/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9171.jpg" /> We arrive at bar/cafe Komiteti, an ode to the country’s communist era, and admire the collection of interesting artefacts jammed inside every cabinet and covering every surface. We sit on the terrace in the sun and drink our strong coffees watching the weekend foot traffic. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c217ddabd89e64e717b03702880597fd5ef586d5d090cb685fec0079eb2d4592/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9191.jpg" data-mid="156824130" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c217ddabd89e64e717b03702880597fd5ef586d5d090cb685fec0079eb2d4592/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9191.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/594832d9632a7783198b817b270ef188e5254e6aaec9dc8b188bd737944198f6/tirana-albania-9186.jpg" data-mid="158361086" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/594832d9632a7783198b817b270ef188e5254e6aaec9dc8b188bd737944198f6/tirana-albania-9186.jpg" /> Kometiti Cafe. We continue on a few blocks to visit&nbsp;Enver Hoxha's strangely-designed former residence situated in the now-hip Blloku neighbourhood. During Hoxha’s reign, this was the wealthy side of town, where members of the corrupt leader’s party lived and fraternized, out-of-bounds to all others. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/54177b6bb7ddcc91e00e98ff99ad889f2117d995e5b6cdea0c13de2f266bdd0c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9197.jpg" data-mid="156824222" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/54177b6bb7ddcc91e00e98ff99ad889f2117d995e5b6cdea0c13de2f266bdd0c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9197.jpg" /> A colourful Blloku building. The property isn’t open to the public so the best we can do is to peer in over the high fence protecting the perimeter. My partner, Filippo, unimpressed, exclaims, “it looks just like any other house”. But I beg to differ. With manicured, thoughtfully-designed gardens and the villa’s ornate exterior, the residence has a very specific 1980s, subdued luxury to it. Opulence with a touch of communist restraint and utility thrown in for good measure. <img width="3513" height="5269" width_o="3513" height_o="5269" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/89cc6b62d1fc0764340cb65a99dcdcb82a75883143abeb0d7640aaf9c9f32948/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9214.jpg" data-mid="156824186" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/89cc6b62d1fc0764340cb65a99dcdcb82a75883143abeb0d7640aaf9c9f32948/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9214.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a23dd2af10f165339e77f9f058f16e4318c393a03db6c25bf5574dacde31e26c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9202.jpg" data-mid="156824221" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a23dd2af10f165339e77f9f058f16e4318c393a03db6c25bf5574dacde31e26c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9202.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7671da9fcf70e59abc6e090eb533331a7a44a44abf110f6db0dfb29cdd22229c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9209.jpg" data-mid="156824187" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7671da9fcf70e59abc6e090eb533331a7a44a44abf110f6db0dfb29cdd22229c/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9209.jpg" /> Enver Hoxha’s former residence in the Blloku neighbourhood. In its untouched state, with the curtains and blinds drawn, it feels like a mysterious time capsule, a small window into the psyche of a unhinged, tyrranical state leader. I stare at the building for a while trying to imagine what life was like when he lived here.With plans to head out of town for the afternoon, we stop by the&nbsp;Toptani Mall Food Court wondering what an Albanian food court even looks like. Is there a Burger King? A Taco Bell? What we find at the top of the maze of escalators is a large room with floor-to-ceiling windows and incredible views over the city. We eat good, cheap traditional Albanian food like rice-stuffed peppers, vegetable salad with pickles and grilled fish and admire the scene before us. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6a00da82d3a9884e9637cb2f22e508fd57bf0f3025c24b737884cf1d85af74d5/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9258.jpg" data-mid="156824188" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6a00da82d3a9884e9637cb2f22e508fd57bf0f3025c24b737884cf1d85af74d5/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9258.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b4c1abb2d0deadce343a51a378a4c59eb30819b355aa554095bdc656442c1f63/albania-9268.jpg" data-mid="158468433" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b4c1abb2d0deadce343a51a378a4c59eb30819b355aa554095bdc656442c1f63/albania-9268.jpg" /> Views from Toptani Mall’s top-floor food court. Next, we find the bus stop that will take us to the Djati Express chairlift outside of town to head up&nbsp;Djati Mountain. A smiling conductor roams the length of the bus, handing out paper tickets in exchange for the 40 leks (0.34 euros) it costs to ride. I find it charming that there’s still a human being doing this job, that it hasn’t been replaced by a machine in this country. The bus stops for an inexplicable 10-minute break along the journey. Everyone, the conductor included, ducks into the adjacent coffee shop where he insists on shouting us both a coffee as a welcome to Albania. We gratefully accept and cheers one another. Throughout my stay in Albania, I never feel like one-too-many-a-tourist. At best, I am a special guest invited in by warm, lively, charming locals excited that I made it here. At worst, I’m an invisible observer, but never do I feel like a tourist encroaching on someone’s space. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/66bb45a78381d6f4fa33c4e836708c089f006310988a9e865861d10416093d83/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9374.jpg" data-mid="156824143" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/66bb45a78381d6f4fa33c4e836708c089f006310988a9e865861d10416093d83/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9374.jpg" />The 0.35 euro paper bus ticket for the Tirana city bus. We hop on the chairlift and are surprised at how long the journey lasts (20 minutes) and how far and high we travel out of the city, up and over the mountains. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2b0c4f120cbd36f3bf0479174cc7d47416e1d3fce2c448a683f91f45afeb90fc/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9351.jpg" data-mid="156824144" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2b0c4f120cbd36f3bf0479174cc7d47416e1d3fce2c448a683f91f45afeb90fc/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9351.jpg" /> <img width="3310" height="4965" width_o="3310" height_o="4965" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/781cb9a3d9daee683e4c61dffa7f534c31dceed4db9ec16b954800d368a0e03f/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9305.jpg" data-mid="156824139" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/781cb9a3d9daee683e4c61dffa7f534c31dceed4db9ec16b954800d368a0e03f/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9305.jpg" /> Left: Chairlift views above Tirana. Right: A countryside picnic outside Tirana spotted from the chairlift.At the top, we pass horses you can take for a ride, a mini-golf course and incredible views back over Tirana even on this hazy day. Unfortunately the very kitch-sounding rotating bar on the top floor of the hotel is closed but the alpine restaurant is open and we duck in for a snack. <img width="3507" height="5260" width_o="3507" height_o="5260" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/373eb6fccdfa976ce397b013cf4feec7af1d5f282058735df170c36109454e19/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9310.jpg" data-mid="156824138" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/373eb6fccdfa976ce397b013cf4feec7af1d5f282058735df170c36109454e19/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9310.jpg" /> The alpine restaurant at the top of Djati chairlift with views out over the city. <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f0ae11f43a67a1ad675606eb2c055c15d61aa380f14b5c3f3cfe291d5e03e920/tirana-albania-9307.jpg" data-mid="158361075" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f0ae11f43a67a1ad675606eb2c055c15d61aa380f14b5c3f3cfe291d5e03e920/tirana-albania-9307.jpg" /> <img width="2435" height="3648" width_o="2435" height_o="3648" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4d55f38ee048693c72225e067e82ee75aa6df9adecc702fd5ad6c814e5701c0b/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9323.jpg" data-mid="156824145" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4d55f38ee048693c72225e067e82ee75aa6df9adecc702fd5ad6c814e5701c0b/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9323.jpg" /> <img width="3648" height="5472" width_o="3648" height_o="5472" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/702142e89ba3d91837703fe38054f1f4f2b61b3d4a20780b94b5c2e47e8a015f/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9312.jpg" data-mid="156824135" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/702142e89ba3d91837703fe38054f1f4f2b61b3d4a20780b94b5c2e47e8a015f/tirana-albania-katie-mcknoulty-9312.jpg" /> Scenes on top of Djati Mountain. With a serious fear of heights, Filippo has such an adverse reaction to the very-high chairlift he decides to trek the 2.5-hour off-map path down the mountain rather than put himself through the experience again. We go our seperate ways, me taking the chairlift back down, and I hope I will one day see him again. <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2edf4036b50cc9fa8690081c36bd480d4ca89325b89ff897abcea3917d36a34b/tirana-albania-1863.jpg" data-mid="158361063" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2edf4036b50cc9fa8690081c36bd480d4ca89325b89ff897abcea3917d36a34b/tirana-albania-1863.jpg" /> Views from the top, Djati Mountain. After making it down the mountain and traipsing the entire eastern length of Tirana to the centre before dusk, Filippo meets me, tired but happy, and we head to famed traditional Albanian restaurant, Oda, for our last night in town. <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0056438e39e45ce13ad72d69cb5ac6166f0052ac24b9f2d1d82d05c788f79576/tirana-albania-1810.jpg" data-mid="158361066" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0056438e39e45ce13ad72d69cb5ac6166f0052ac24b9f2d1d82d05c788f79576/tirana-albania-1810.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b6c893b8508a8eae55994b88964a3fce0e385a86b828f40c17c3a057aa8144d0/tirana-albania-1823.jpg" data-mid="158361055" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b6c893b8508a8eae55994b88964a3fce0e385a86b828f40c17c3a057aa8144d0/tirana-albania-1823.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5331110cd17de7def5d2c2b034bc66f8a7c84f00fc6911bf2ae128e3b28f9a51/tirana-albania-1833.jpg" data-mid="158361057" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5331110cd17de7def5d2c2b034bc66f8a7c84f00fc6911bf2ae128e3b28f9a51/tirana-albania-1833.jpg" /> Oda restaurant courtyard. Arriving without a reservation, we only have to wait 10 minutes before we’re sitting at one of the tiny rickety wooden tables, nodding and singing along with the crowd to the eight-person Albanian folk band. In the lemon-tree covered courtyard, we drink local white wine and eat feta cheese, stuffed eggplants, vegetable soup and grilled zucchini. We go back to our Airbnb in good spirits. I already feel a fondness for this place, equal parts strange, surprising, fascinating and delightful. In the morning, we’ll leave to drive south to the Albanian Riviera and its beaches. Part II coming soon, An October Road Trip in Albania: Riviera. Albania Map For all the spots in these Albania stories, check out my Google map. https://thetravellinglight.com/Astrocartography-How-Places-Transform-Us Tue, 08 Dec 2015 07:16:55 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Astrocartography-How-Places-Transform-Us Astrocartography: How Places Transform Us spirit &nbsp;astrology&nbsp; create your life <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/819267d030d64ead0cd4fc9fd09fc02752d01d69ebf5c41e6c53fcd7f6d40271/IMG_9729_follow-the-map-2.jpg" data-mid="59847658" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/819267d030d64ead0cd4fc9fd09fc02752d01d69ebf5c41e6c53fcd7f6d40271/IMG_9729_follow-the-map-2.jpg" /> Astrocartography is a discipline of Astrology (it's also known as Relocation Astrology) where your birth chart, which can predict a surprising amount of information about the direction and events of your life as well as your personality, is mapped against the world map. I had my Vedic birth chart read in Bali here. Lines are drawn on top of a map of the world and places that fall on lines or line intersections are supposed to be more meaningful, powerful, transformative for you. The different lines all have different meanings too, e.g. your Chiron line is related to addressing your 'wounds' that need healing or your personal gifts/magic (the two are often interlinked) that enhance personal wholeness. Whilst your MC line represents your public "face", your accomplishments, and your overall sense of responsibility and standing in the world/society. Depending on which line/s fall on the city/place, a place can be very supportive for you, helping you to succeed in an area of your life e.g. relationships or work or self-confidence or they can be very challenging in a certain area of your life, pushing you to change something; remembering challenges can be just as transformative, if not moreso, than support. The energy of moving to or spending time in these new places awakens something in us, something that was already there but perhaps we'd repressed or ignored it; the change comes from within, the energy to do so comes from without. That certain places can shift something inside us to inspire, support or challenge us to grow and transform is fascinating to me. And it further validates the reasons why people have periods of their life where they just have to uproot and move cities or where the only option seems to be taking an extended break from their home and regular life somewhere far away. Travel changes and heals us, it helps us to evolve. <img width="2100" height="1321" width_o="2100" height_o="1321" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ecedc481c265b38c04b20c376b23289734051ee1b8285e02df267835ad7c5db8/Instagram-banner.png" data-mid="221634058" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ecedc481c265b38c04b20c376b23289734051ee1b8285e02df267835ad7c5db8/Instagram-banner.png" /> ***** How to Create Your Own Astrocartography Chart <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a9385c8011c28041a5061ecff4892746b61c39813ade64a69958b1fbcf735066/IMG_8995-shivananda-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="59847659" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a9385c8011c28041a5061ecff4892746b61c39813ade64a69958b1fbcf735066/IMG_8995-shivananda-the-travelling-light.jpg" /> Step 1 Gather the info you'll need: name, birth date, birth city (easy), birth time (not so easy). Your birth time should be to the nearest half hour at the very least, you could find it on your birth certificate or your parents may remember (though it's awkward for all when they don't). Step 2 Input your details into astro.com Step 3 Look up each part of the world you're interested in, clicking on cities and lines all over the map, reading the automatic interpretation for you and that place in the world on the right hand side of the map. Step 4 You can google the name of each line also to give you some greater depth of meaning behind a certain place falling on a certain line. ☾ Here's a few examples of places that show up on the map and in real life for me as important and my interpretations... Bali "A stay in these places can help define your goals, giving directional clues regarding your calling and official capacity within the community. Here you will be noticed and receive support, recognition and protection." <img width="1340" height="922" width_o="1340" height_o="922" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3c97526ede89351335b4d1b0a7047873a171417e7731898fe3673a0eb8c5047d/astrocartography-asia-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="59847655" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3c97526ede89351335b4d1b0a7047873a171417e7731898fe3673a0eb8c5047d/astrocartography-asia-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" /> It was in Bali that I first felt that I as a traveller belonged to a community. It was here I first met fellow digital nomads (I don't think I'd even really heard the term before!) and felt so much support and love and understanding from people similar in make up and life goals to me. As a result, this place forced me to look at my goals and direction regarding work and living very differently; it was very transformative spending time here and I can't wait to go back. Brisbane "These places are unsuitable for acquiring material possessions or speculating financially. You feel relaxed and easy, and pleasantly removed; creative pursuits, as well as becoming involved with transcendental, religious and spiritual subjects have a purpose." <img width="1340" height="922" width_o="1340" height_o="922" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a0a359eadbd9ec5823c6d094f3c8b3c20aa19ccdb6c2d5c630c5bc16612e7e4e/astrocartography-australia-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="59847656" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a0a359eadbd9ec5823c6d094f3c8b3c20aa19ccdb6c2d5c630c5bc16612e7e4e/astrocartography-australia-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" /> With Brisbane as my hometown, I do feel relaxed and easy here, which I've always worried doesn't force me to step up to all I could be and do. This is the place where I've met most of the important spiritual teachers in my life and my whole family are from here, who are my greatest spiritual teachers. Paris "Whether you like it or not, it is here that you will be required to demonstrate your strength and uniqueness to the world." <img width="1340" height="922" width_o="1340" height_o="922" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2cc46771cd8355df86f63e271a8b1f70ce469d993d5b366809cbe7c5d0201c1d/astrocartography-europe-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="59847657" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2cc46771cd8355df86f63e271a8b1f70ce469d993d5b366809cbe7c5d0201c1d/astrocartography-europe-1-the-travelling-light.jpg" /> For me, I've always been drawn to live in Paris as long as I could remember, I know it's a cliche but it always felt like more than that. I've only just started to think of Paris as a place I could plausibly base myself but I do feel very free to express myself and find out who my true self is here already. Being so far away from the people I know and in a culture which is quite strong in its own right and different from my own, I'm forced to call on my strength and uniqueness to get me through. In doing so, I feel I'm growing here. I'd love to know how you go with your chart! Astrology is an incredibly complicated field of study to understand and my grasp is very much that of a beginner but I think it's fun to explore and play! Comment on my Instagram with your results : ) https://thetravellinglight.com/Pantelleria-A-Down-to-Earth-Guide Mon, 12 Jul 2021 20:40:46 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Pantelleria-A-Down-to-Earth-Guide Pantelleria Island: A Down-to-Earth GuidePantelleria: A Down-to-Earth Guide travel&nbsp; sicily&nbsp; italy <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d28fc0603a40cc0878e618532e7e3c706d6332608e78c03804d542cda9855ebd/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0287.jpg" data-mid="115554651" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d28fc0603a40cc0878e618532e7e3c706d6332608e78c03804d542cda9855ebd/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0287.jpg" /> Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty Pantelleria is paradise for those in search of somewhere down-to-earth and soulful. It’s an intense immersion in nature, from the volcanic rocks and springs, to the clean blue waters, dammusi houses made from the earth and open-air scooters and buggies. I peer out of the plane window from the tiny airstrip that is Pantelleria Airport and admire the alien landscape. It's been one and a half years since I've seen the inside of an aeroplane or touched down somewhere new. I can’t tell if my awe is real or just the result of not seeing anything so foreign to my eyes in so long. We’re in Pantelleria, a tiny Southern Italian island 30 minutes by scooter from top to bottom and from one side to the other. When I’m deciding where to go on a June summer holiday, constrained to Italy thanks to visa and pandemic concerns, I choose the most un-Italian, exotic, faraway place I know within the country. I choose Pantelleria, the island I’ve been dreaming of since it backdropped Guadanino’s A Bigger Splash in 2015, a film I watched longingly from a cinema on the other side of the world in Australia. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4f884a41cc13e63a0e9008204135e21bcf43fdce200e4dec3385eb2ea8374a45/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0715.jpg" data-mid="114418094" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4f884a41cc13e63a0e9008204135e21bcf43fdce200e4dec3385eb2ea8374a45/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0715.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0e3aaf3315c0bebbe25fcab6a021c37fe494085b318583154e6d189bfed284e3/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-01524.jpg" data-mid="116194628" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0e3aaf3315c0bebbe25fcab6a021c37fe494085b318583154e6d189bfed284e3/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-01524.jpg" /> Left: Resilient wildflowers sprout from bone-dry, black rocks. Right: Floating at the Baiata dei Turchi. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9b556fb9c0e6b9483a7838c000109531a0fa1f64cd4f736339dc224a4c1ac1d3/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1054.jpg" data-mid="114423115" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9b556fb9c0e6b9483a7838c000109531a0fa1f64cd4f736339dc224a4c1ac1d3/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1054.jpg" /> Without sandy beaches, visitors and locals ‘make do’, laying down towels and swimming from the rocks.The other-worldly feeling that struck me upon landing continues for several days more as the clouds hang low and thick, enveloping the whole island in its own atmosphere. I feel cut off from the rest of the world, in that good way you want on holidays.The feeling is intensified by the fact that several days before our arrival, a fishing boat unwittingly drops its anchor onto an underwater phone line, suspending all mobile connections until further notice. We have no signal for the entirety of our stay. While this would be downright unacceptable in most places, it’s merely something to be taken in stride on a slow-paced island like Pantelleria.We’re still in Italy here, but the volcanic rock that is Pantelleria floats closer to Tunisia's East coast than it does to mainland Sicily. And so North African influences abound on the island, particularly in the architecture and the arid landscape; it really doesn’t feel like we’re in Italy anymore.&nbsp; <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/df6bc068c41dfd4c1658b513273fb65142eb4142eab6266c12a28ad79f9986d1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0343.jpg" data-mid="114425657" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/df6bc068c41dfd4c1658b513273fb65142eb4142eab6266c12a28ad79f9986d1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0343.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/dd43ce358d88148ec390728962c7adf563f95a800edbc62d62354215225ac322/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0334.jpg" data-mid="115554665" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/dd43ce358d88148ec390728962c7adf563f95a800edbc62d62354215225ac322/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0334.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d73ebf5836a8f17ab063fb882e7db48eaec529b8eb8854e3d465c424d59b5c74/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0562.jpg" data-mid="114424328" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d73ebf5836a8f17ab063fb882e7db48eaec529b8eb8854e3d465c424d59b5c74/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0562.jpg" />Pantelleria’s dammusi, unique structures native to the island made from local volcanic stone, fashioned into a dome shape to keep the air naturally cool inside. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f3382058042e0905ce61bde1100c0720e842616e59695ce64c326fd47416c6d9/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0670.jpg" data-mid="114422661" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f3382058042e0905ce61bde1100c0720e842616e59695ce64c326fd47416c6d9/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0670.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f720c9b7b7038d02bcdd6f36dea13db272e68fa2605d883f89a1cd0d1504cc72/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0678.jpg" data-mid="114422658" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f720c9b7b7038d02bcdd6f36dea13db272e68fa2605d883f89a1cd0d1504cc72/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0678.jpg" /> Left: Map of the island.&nbsp; Right: A dune buggy, Pantelleria’s most luxurious local mode of transport.Riding on the back of our scooter from the airport to our Airbnb, I see the extraterrestrial landscape up-close for the first time: black volcanic rocks sprout sun-bleached wildflowers from their crevices, dried brown and yellow bushes cover the earth and even the most verdant plants are faded to a washed-out green.Being on Pantelleria is an immersion in nature you can’t really escape. As a volcanic island, hot springs dot the ocean floor and steam seeps from cracks in the earth in places making natural saunas and fumaroles in the island’s rocky centre. Strong winds batter Pantelleria regularly, so much so that planes often have a hard time landing and taking off. Grape vines are grown low to the ground to keep out of the path of the forceful gales.On our holiday in late June though, the heat and strength of the sun is what gets to us, bouncing back from every surface, our only respite the cool, clear water surrounding the island. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/94ef81b4d8264a16edc41935b0814152a44042e7027b4a53ee8cfb31930c6696/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1048.jpg" data-mid="114423205" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/94ef81b4d8264a16edc41935b0814152a44042e7027b4a53ee8cfb31930c6696/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1048.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/bf3246bb0444bbdacac2fabad27cd7466645e32753f5a8652f2cc95e84ff81b7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1029.jpg" data-mid="114423655" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/bf3246bb0444bbdacac2fabad27cd7466645e32753f5a8652f2cc95e84ff81b7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1029.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f4ab1bf3ca91a99028673d17c0a8c8dbe460fd1ad0ac33a52ae3ec742fc127fb/IMG_1018.jpg" data-mid="115995070" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f4ab1bf3ca91a99028673d17c0a8c8dbe460fd1ad0ac33a52ae3ec742fc127fb/IMG_1018.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/006fe303fafd1b3b181a4265fafefced892d6ab99275aef7a1c2b8daccd8b622/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0582.jpg" data-mid="115554713" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/006fe303fafd1b3b181a4265fafefced892d6ab99275aef7a1c2b8daccd8b622/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0582.jpg" />Local grape vines grow different here, low to the ground to avoid the strong winds. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/db1ce65bbd356726c71d24cdefc1f608a01a17fa9f76c34303ad9f06f81a2421/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1086.jpg" data-mid="114421795" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/db1ce65bbd356726c71d24cdefc1f608a01a17fa9f76c34303ad9f06f81a2421/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1086.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/407cd60fc28f2d0697aa23e410290da8f18c267530a9d8ac9a0979845b7ca79a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0980.jpg" data-mid="114418698" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/407cd60fc28f2d0697aa23e410290da8f18c267530a9d8ac9a0979845b7ca79a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0980.jpg" /> The Island Without a Single Beach <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a51459649af46ac38e25711cb61018769e6606f96e900915f18bd39caf4fba75/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1043.jpg" data-mid="114418882" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a51459649af46ac38e25711cb61018769e6606f96e900915f18bd39caf4fba75/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1043.jpg" /> Baiata dei Turchi Italians had warned me about Pantelleria. “Brutta!”, a friend said, Italian for ugly. And most importantly, they told me there wasn’t a single beach, with the local definition of a beach being a wide, flat expanse of sandy or pebbly shore, usually overrun by plastic sun beds and bright umbrellas. But Italy’s ever-present bagni, or beach clubs, always seemed a bit weird to me anyway. I was used to seeking out wilder beaches and swimming spots. So I knew Pantelleria’s mixed bag of different swimming spots would be beach enough for me. Lago di Venere <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e9d3163a4228fc0707da67207da81e65c698765fcf68e4befcdd38713b80beed/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0693.jpg" data-mid="114424661" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e9d3163a4228fc0707da67207da81e65c698765fcf68e4befcdd38713b80beed/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0693.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/882d8555f0d26cb68cbc46f98a6b18de82bd054c0fb52efee0bf2103745ddf0d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0643.jpg" data-mid="114420966" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/882d8555f0d26cb68cbc46f98a6b18de82bd054c0fb52efee0bf2103745ddf0d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0643.jpg" /> As small planes pass over the turquoise jewel that is the Lago di Venere, Lake of Venus, I can’t help but think of my former stressed-out self up there several days ago, about to land at the nearby airport. It seemed I’d become a new person in the space of a few days, now covered in mud, baking, melting into my surroundings, near-naked on the cracked earth. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0f29bb4ad3e375ec0c384f05347cc8adfa1d4a28e4cd1b0b96cff9b91e7d37d1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0654.jpg" data-mid="114419807" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0f29bb4ad3e375ec0c384f05347cc8adfa1d4a28e4cd1b0b96cff9b91e7d37d1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0654.jpg" /> Often called the Specchio di Venere, translated, Mirror of Venus, this is the island’s free and natural, open-air spa. The thermal spring lake is formed in the crater of an extinct volcano, its bed covered in thermal mud that’s healing for the skin. The waters are warm but not hot, sulfurous but not smelly. Here you spread the mud on your skin and let it dry lying under the hot sun. You immerse yourself again in the lake’s waters and emerge cleansed. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e52c0d57da1499cc5395384403ae1b0bd782d8551e5ecca4babe89a2bcfa10bc/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0685.jpg" data-mid="115554811" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e52c0d57da1499cc5395384403ae1b0bd782d8551e5ecca4babe89a2bcfa10bc/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0685.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3baf145391941b16e7cd964281f3c7a69ef989b35345b5d67cef601dd5160167/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0665.jpg" data-mid="114419852" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3baf145391941b16e7cd964281f3c7a69ef989b35345b5d67cef601dd5160167/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0665.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ea40218bed1cc047af265d9ea470b2e84d3468832e6fc1c45a21cc1ec16258a1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0623.jpg" data-mid="114420967" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ea40218bed1cc047af265d9ea470b2e84d3468832e6fc1c45a21cc1ec16258a1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0623.jpg" /> <img width="1286" height="1930" width_o="1286" height_o="1930" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9c7432ba8f81a53ffeb62d5a005610d3ac5a7bf16cfd32f3fbee8ab92466c04e/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0653.jpg" data-mid="114421171" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9c7432ba8f81a53ffeb62d5a005610d3ac5a7bf16cfd32f3fbee8ab92466c04e/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0653.jpg" /> Laghetto delle Ondine <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7fe37fbfff74bc8576733e5298a474cb559f5de13157186712b6fe7dbb17d489/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0727.jpg" data-mid="114421474" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7fe37fbfff74bc8576733e5298a474cb559f5de13157186712b6fe7dbb17d489/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0727.jpg" /> When I was a girl growing up in Australia, we’d spend hours exploring the intricate natural rock pools at the end of every beach. But I’d never seen rock pools like these before that make up the Laghetto delle Ondine, translated, Little Lake of the Little Waves. Instead of tiny rock pools you can barely poke a finger into, these ones are the size of backyard swimming pools. They’re filled with fresh seawater trickling, sometimes crashing, in from the sea just over the wall from where you swim. <img width="1333" height="1999" width_o="1333" height_o="1999" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/684fc5dc8daf2885ebb769d4f945ef9097bdc27f17c085a421be1058b80b8752/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0828.jpg" data-mid="114421357" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/684fc5dc8daf2885ebb769d4f945ef9097bdc27f17c085a421be1058b80b8752/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0828.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/96a72b8692bc45d45216b7366c036a3095ce3409c0b01eed5f9c584d96bd7de0/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0725.jpg" data-mid="114421270" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/96a72b8692bc45d45216b7366c036a3095ce3409c0b01eed5f9c584d96bd7de0/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0725.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6eb1aacd4bee781f80e951f2efff5913040c22dccc749b8424d2c443896c80b5/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0804.jpg" data-mid="114421360" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6eb1aacd4bee781f80e951f2efff5913040c22dccc749b8424d2c443896c80b5/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0804.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0a027e184924a4f8c7ad10f4208dfaf32d212f68d233103c27dbf322d19ec6c7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0836.jpg" data-mid="115554854" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0a027e184924a4f8c7ad10f4208dfaf32d212f68d233103c27dbf322d19ec6c7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0836.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b4e7bb800a81dbb94c5c5fb7ee0b430c032da2f229c097e34e5d0d744df5338b/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0792.jpg" data-mid="114425655" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b4e7bb800a81dbb94c5c5fb7ee0b430c032da2f229c097e34e5d0d744df5338b/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0792.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/13fe696a36ba2ed6403dbfb106cd4264fd819638203ceae65eaa3d6af6477614/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0760.jpg" data-mid="114421358" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/13fe696a36ba2ed6403dbfb106cd4264fd819638203ceae65eaa3d6af6477614/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0760.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d1bd6146f861804088c3b739428b66a33b1a5391d129a9a11002d9a70c140c19/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0767.jpg" data-mid="115554855" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d1bd6146f861804088c3b739428b66a33b1a5391d129a9a11002d9a70c140c19/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0767.jpg" /> Left &amp; Right: Le Frattesi sandals helped us navigate the pools in and out of the water. Balata dei Turchi <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/56de251a49a11b594621809f69cf9e67f6770ad62ab97a601b0937b780155fcd/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1009.jpg" data-mid="114423867" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/56de251a49a11b594621809f69cf9e67f6770ad62ab97a601b0937b780155fcd/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1009.jpg" />We emerge over the hill after a rocky scooter ride down from the main road to see a dreamy Italian summer scene: 20 or so people sprawled out over the rocks, some reading or dozing lazily, others snorkelling around the water’s edge, an umbrella jammed into a rock’s crevice. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/69e9c60b1c9ddb88b5f2edea9c1ad04669c846df7d503cfc51556bb0fa9f0a0a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0993.jpg" data-mid="115751144" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/69e9c60b1c9ddb88b5f2edea9c1ad04669c846df7d503cfc51556bb0fa9f0a0a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0993.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/98d403938bf20af14faa86f3606e47d97f47fad522731f1831f317a76ecb1b66/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0269.jpg" data-mid="115751013" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/98d403938bf20af14faa86f3606e47d97f47fad522731f1831f317a76ecb1b66/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0269.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e17c0e1726b111db57a4d5496203c9b7133c396c6578f01bc0a7f6cc85fd121d/katie-mcknoulty-ponza-italy-01514.jpg" data-mid="115751019" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e17c0e1726b111db57a4d5496203c9b7133c396c6578f01bc0a7f6cc85fd121d/katie-mcknoulty-ponza-italy-01514.jpg" /> Backdropped by a dramatic mountainscape lined with dark green and blue strokes, the Baiata dei Turchi becomes our preferred swimming spot. Located on the Southern tip of the island, it’s probably the most out of the way place to swim, but the most worth it too. Without a man-made structure in site, plunge into the clear, deep water with snorkel on, explore the underwater world (I saw two starfish!), alternating between baking on the black volcanic rocks and diving in to cool off again. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0b8ca5afa38e641818a2448597702da183ddeeb31725494983dea3c504d416e9/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-01526.jpg" data-mid="114314708" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0b8ca5afa38e641818a2448597702da183ddeeb31725494983dea3c504d416e9/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-01526.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="1999" width_o="1333" height_o="1999" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/90ffa5cb22f213b931501914bb346ddc19f7e9c73f05c3a0cf7a7eb5d955d216/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1010.jpg" data-mid="114423674" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/90ffa5cb22f213b931501914bb346ddc19f7e9c73f05c3a0cf7a7eb5d955d216/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1010.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f1b2184241a444b3b9d024c37de240da3f8a8955c88e1875ccb6d7b8e3d9acab/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0298.jpg" data-mid="114314716" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f1b2184241a444b3b9d024c37de240da3f8a8955c88e1875ccb6d7b8e3d9acab/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0298.jpg" /> La Nika <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/aac4cf65d90b82e9c8602ba8a0625f2c688c7f1ecef276f0f8cb7d10e0d1d75b/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0449.jpg" data-mid="115554681" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/aac4cf65d90b82e9c8602ba8a0625f2c688c7f1ecef276f0f8cb7d10e0d1d75b/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0449.jpg" /> A similar vibe to the Balata dei Turchi but a little further North and closer to Scauri town, people sprawl out on the rocks after the 10-minute steep walk down from the carpark near the main road.Venture down a different road (take a left at the first dammuso house after the parking lot) and find underwater thermal springs bubbling up out of the sea. You might be joined by those jumping off boats into the water but if you make the hike, chances are you’ll have the rocky beach mostly to yourself.&nbsp; <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/379e696f937999422a6d75f2111ddec0d71edcd7c87c1218c4e8eccbb32169e7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0441.jpg" data-mid="114423804" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/379e696f937999422a6d75f2111ddec0d71edcd7c87c1218c4e8eccbb32169e7/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0441.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8db60526e41e16b7355756192d5f36ad095e6b0774acad68bc9ee6d7dbfe1686/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0477.jpg" data-mid="114423801" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8db60526e41e16b7355756192d5f36ad095e6b0774acad68bc9ee6d7dbfe1686/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0477.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/72f81ef27cae16dbce7b6daa69b7d603dccbafe18519e1fdbea4791820084cd1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0398.jpg" data-mid="115554402" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/72f81ef27cae16dbce7b6daa69b7d603dccbafe18519e1fdbea4791820084cd1/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0398.jpg" /> Volcanic Activity <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e5242e794ebddc369b1431577b246b93338e700d315f839cd291052e715584a1/IMG_8367.jpg" data-mid="115193713" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e5242e794ebddc369b1431577b246b93338e700d315f839cd291052e715584a1/IMG_8367.jpg" /> Pantelleria is a volcanic island, hence the thermal springs bursting forth out of the sea beds and under the Lago di Venere. But the action continues inland, with a number of natural saunas and fumaroles, steam vents, found around the island.Feeling the pull to move my body one afternoon, I search the area around our Airbnb on Google Maps and find something called the “Favare Attività Vulcanica”, translated, “Favare Volcanic Activity”. A volcano? I’m intrigued. <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/921173e3f7e60f3d9ff24a6c47043613592a92da252bbf5f19f8073a3789955d/IMG_8352.jpg" data-mid="115751876" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/921173e3f7e60f3d9ff24a6c47043613592a92da252bbf5f19f8073a3789955d/IMG_8352.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/cef33eaf56a2eed5410996122d37125116fac3611c1e5334985fb9bb0209a6ff/IMG_8374.jpg" data-mid="115751882" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/cef33eaf56a2eed5410996122d37125116fac3611c1e5334985fb9bb0209a6ff/IMG_8374.jpg" /> We scooter to the parking spot and walk the rest of the way traipsing up a hill. The cloud cover lifts and the sun breaks through for the first time in days, shining on a pile of huge rocks as we descend into a valley covered in yellow grass and wildflowers. It’s only as we get closer that we notice the steam escaping from in between the rocks, that otherworldly feeling continues. <img width="4032" height="3024" width_o="4032" height_o="3024" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/344402da0ed7cada63d0b7882dba22c447d8b29701e62d5d0b4c94e177ed6b19/IMG_8354.jpg" data-mid="116195884" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/344402da0ed7cada63d0b7882dba22c447d8b29701e62d5d0b4c94e177ed6b19/IMG_8354.jpg" /> Dammuso Stay <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c1db8b739bc86b984c96c46f64f3f595cf413f30774389be7dac54732271976f/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0865.jpg" data-mid="114420393" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c1db8b739bc86b984c96c46f64f3f595cf413f30774389be7dac54732271976f/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0865.jpg" /> We stay in a dammuso, a local Pantescan dome-like structure made of thick volcanic stone, of which there are many to choose from on Airbnb. I choose this one for its outdoor shower and then vow to take ALL my showers ONLY inside it. The shower sits by the roadside with only a sparse bamboo screen between me and passersby but I risk public nudity twice daily regardless. I bask in the joy that is a hot shower in amidst the drying flowers and plants as the sun fades, or a cold one to cool off on a hot morning under the sun. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c32f2c9e2ffd90ec04e8001497fc569dea15986eca0dd35e78f229a8f918a7ec/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0928.jpg" data-mid="114420409" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c32f2c9e2ffd90ec04e8001497fc569dea15986eca0dd35e78f229a8f918a7ec/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0928.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/59fe522b3bdd4c858fd5d46abd5323ab4df931555215aac23d4dd2947a9c9b3a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0856.jpg" data-mid="114420422" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/59fe522b3bdd4c858fd5d46abd5323ab4df931555215aac23d4dd2947a9c9b3a/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0856.jpg" /> Left: Outdoor area complete with hammock. Right: A caper plant crawling up the stone walls. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/615b7351ae88c82e4798c6af831998676f0235d8fd19e9b5180675156729c48d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0975.jpg" data-mid="114419964" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/615b7351ae88c82e4798c6af831998676f0235d8fd19e9b5180675156729c48d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0975.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b53285bd5cfcf8be0d4c468651d0df0c5e7b266ad600575c025bfc300f375083/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0976.jpg" data-mid="114420414" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b53285bd5cfcf8be0d4c468651d0df0c5e7b266ad600575c025bfc300f375083/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0976.jpg" /> In fact, most things happen outdoors at our dammuso: we sit on the domed roof for sunset, we cook all our meals in the outdoor kitchen and eat at the dining table framed by billowing white linen, we lie in the sunbeds at night and see the stars so clearly. We are far away from everything in this house but that’s the point. Caper plants flower all around us and creep up the stone walls, covering the ground in places. Across the quiet road there’s a field of wildflowers looking out to sea. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/29aa5dd2dba0b731fc992637f36360925fad73c8fe15b839067272bf52aea2c4/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0868.jpg" data-mid="114418629" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/29aa5dd2dba0b731fc992637f36360925fad73c8fe15b839067272bf52aea2c4/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0868.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c1cf1269fe4af31c36d2bad87017bec6a7487b0940fe1e5b0c2090e6ee546faa/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0852.jpg" data-mid="114418630" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c1cf1269fe4af31c36d2bad87017bec6a7487b0940fe1e5b0c2090e6ee546faa/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0852.jpg" /> <img width="2836" height="3996" width_o="2836" height_o="3996" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2419d736a9299edfc7d0f9b85a2f786dd68b007b9c58b30f879869154d9edfc9/IMG_8423-2.jpg" data-mid="116196413" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2419d736a9299edfc7d0f9b85a2f786dd68b007b9c58b30f879869154d9edfc9/IMG_8423-2.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/29c89f903f1d2e3020a0d35d13e229c2f03b7c90dbe1ab8ef1d21c1e181e5119/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0897.jpg" data-mid="114418635" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/29c89f903f1d2e3020a0d35d13e229c2f03b7c90dbe1ab8ef1d21c1e181e5119/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0897.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5f1b9df137a69f71f11536b0353127e1bcd5cecbefb3c388dba0d100b7d62932/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0882.jpg" data-mid="114420375" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5f1b9df137a69f71f11536b0353127e1bcd5cecbefb3c388dba0d100b7d62932/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0882.jpg" /><img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f0205e9c84eeb0a3e4a27a79f5c6408d7ba3918a92b48bb8bbda3bdb26433858/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1114.jpg" data-mid="114420417" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f0205e9c84eeb0a3e4a27a79f5c6408d7ba3918a92b48bb8bbda3bdb26433858/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1114.jpg" /> The Island by Scooter <img width="1333" height="1999" width_o="1333" height_o="1999" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/78ded1ed8f76eed38c496904dde548a5a3b7fdda396abda5ee0d313e8ea7de31/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0323.jpg" data-mid="114314710" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/78ded1ed8f76eed38c496904dde548a5a3b7fdda396abda5ee0d313e8ea7de31/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0323.jpg" /> Pantelleria island is best and almost exclusively traversed with one of three vehicles: a pastel-coloured fiat 500 (windows down), an open-air Citroen dune buggy (the only choice for the visiting rich and/or famous) or a scooter big enough to fit your luggage.One of my greatest delights upon arrival at Pantelleria airport is the realisation that there are no big car rental chains, my greatest travel bugbear after years of falling prey to their tricks. There are only local companies renting out the aforementioned options of cars and scooters for cheap, lucky because we haven’t booked anything in advance. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d75d56b00b0a38a143356408f4a9941f71193a6ad4156f82c9e79527c043eec8/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0681.jpg" data-mid="115554813" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d75d56b00b0a38a143356408f4a9941f71193a6ad4156f82c9e79527c043eec8/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0681.jpg" /> <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/546af951232679a0794493950295aa9b8d88d14c153bec5eea51ed0e865b035d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0683.jpg" data-mid="115554812" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/546af951232679a0794493950295aa9b8d88d14c153bec5eea51ed0e865b035d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0683.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a98f0041711cd26f5760ace46e2aa66e361fab93f417c1f667776c95d746a939/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0520.jpg" data-mid="115554399" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a98f0041711cd26f5760ace46e2aa66e361fab93f417c1f667776c95d746a939/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0520.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/70ef9d7d91828ac2e3dab1f615ed300d954b99001ee926b527e8508cf2ef0159/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0574.jpg" data-mid="115554712" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/70ef9d7d91828ac2e3dab1f615ed300d954b99001ee926b527e8508cf2ef0159/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0574.jpg" /> After leaving absolutely no deposit and with no discussion of insurance, we load our carry-on luggage awkwardly onto the scooter any way it fits. We take off and immediately feel the warm wind on our faces. Our trusty scooter takes us the thirty-minute drive to our accomodation, then later down rocky paths leading to beaches inaccessible by cars, on hilly roads traversing the middle of the island with vineyards and caper farms lining the roadside. We stop and reach out our hands to pick ripe mulberries from the scooter along the way. The only sticking point is the fact that Pantelleria is a one-petrol-station island, and that one station is a 30-minute drive from our Airbnb. We keep at least a quarter of a tank on reserve just to make it there to fill up every second day or so. Small &amp; Local Scauri Town <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3633d0de1288f8e680b296339f470e9bde36343c89fd0613b3f274b767d6b768/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1108.jpg" data-mid="114422182" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3633d0de1288f8e680b296339f470e9bde36343c89fd0613b3f274b767d6b768/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1108.jpg" />Dispensa Pantesca, ScauriFor those who disdain monotonous and place-deaf chain hotels and tourist menus, Pantelleria is a haven.We stay near Scauri town in the South-West corner of the island and immediately find so many ‘hole-in-the-wall’, small, locally-run and stocked places to eat and drink there. Without even trying, it seems like the island exclusively offers what’s oh so trendy right now: everything place is locally-run, zero-kilometre, authentic, down-to-earth and good. Dispensa Pantesca <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8149bf5ee73b84b123c70f7a0de7a2269e73140891f490c1da6ab51b2306bf9c/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1100.jpg" data-mid="114422264" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8149bf5ee73b84b123c70f7a0de7a2269e73140891f490c1da6ab51b2306bf9c/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1100.jpg" /> Dispensa Pantesca is the more casual sister bar adjoined to La Nicchia, one of the island’s most sought-after restaurants for a reservation. You can usually get a table, or a couple of cushions on the ground, at this low-key bar without booking. With its own food menu as well as the full menu at La Nicchia available to you, find the local specialties and wines dressed up or down here. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5bafda6ffae656eb58849e3d0ec105936ff5265e57be2bf500e182ad433900bf/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1105.jpg" data-mid="114422266" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5bafda6ffae656eb58849e3d0ec105936ff5265e57be2bf500e182ad433900bf/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1105.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1d60538ed575178e59a057dfbdd60be7d1678ed9869b6e454d906016dcb11393/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1096.jpg" data-mid="114422263" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1d60538ed575178e59a057dfbdd60be7d1678ed9869b6e454d906016dcb11393/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1096.jpg" /> Kaya Kaya <img width="1333" height="1999" width_o="1333" height_o="1999" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3deb888893dc9f5ffba675fa32006c4449f593ef3bcf5068baccd944fd5243ee/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0362.jpg" data-mid="114422271" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3deb888893dc9f5ffba675fa32006c4449f593ef3bcf5068baccd944fd5243ee/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0362.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="1999" width_o="1333" height_o="1999" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ecd4852b7df7c4373e1e13be998040d0c6bb2e00e9e99580cefda9876a4705c6/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0351.jpg" data-mid="114422269" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ecd4852b7df7c4373e1e13be998040d0c6bb2e00e9e99580cefda9876a4705c6/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0351.jpg" /> We pass Kaya Kaya on our first day on the island and immediately plan to return. Even during the day there’s a whole vibe here, with sun-lovers sprawled on the nearby port’s boat ramp, alternating between swimming and ordering drinks. When we finally make it here one early evening, we order cocktails made with all the flair by two bartenders in loud hawaiian shirts. We down them listening to a mix of Talking Heads and The Clash amongst an eclectic crowd. It’s not exactly what you’d expect from a tiny, quiet island floating in the Mediterranean but it’s cool and it works. Il Gelato di Ulisse <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6992cae638604987bdd5947de028705097dd3b481d09433acb0e11e4f8ef17fc/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0353.jpg" data-mid="114422268" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6992cae638604987bdd5947de028705097dd3b481d09433acb0e11e4f8ef17fc/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-0353.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/98e94f509fc693a97f931e8cda391e4a88acfcb0fc0c0a66a98946a1efb2b00e/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1090.jpg" data-mid="114422267" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/98e94f509fc693a97f931e8cda391e4a88acfcb0fc0c0a66a98946a1efb2b00e/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1090.jpg" /> This is gelato stepped up a notch, where they do epic brioche ice cream sandwiches, ice cold lemon granitas and gelato with local flavours like basil, caper and chocolate as well as the classics. Eat yours quickly before it melts on the panorama terrace looking over Scauri port. La Vela <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/10b1216ca741077522942a701cf189570a6856697d940eb3b48ea5b5a866685d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1062.jpg" data-mid="115554886" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/10b1216ca741077522942a701cf189570a6856697d940eb3b48ea5b5a866685d/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1062.jpg" />Our first and last lunch is taken here at La Vela. A good place to try all the local specialties like pantesca salad ( tomatoes, potatoes, red onion, olives, capers, oregano and extra-virgin olive oil) or pesto pantesco (a fresh tomato-based sauce) pasta, and local seafood picked from a platter, cooked simply and well. The restaurant overlooks a popular swimming spot, perfect for pre or post-meal sprawls and swims. <img width="3000" height="2000" width_o="3000" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8d12330d5e99fa64785b21de0f5448288151feafa0fff186813113a8abb28639/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1058.jpg" data-mid="115554884" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8d12330d5e99fa64785b21de0f5448288151feafa0fff186813113a8abb28639/the-travelling-light-pantelleria-sicily-italy-1058.jpg" /> Panificio Marrone Francesco This local bakery found in the very centre of town is an institution. Some days we encountered a line out the door. The shop is small and hot, churning out giant arancini balls, pizza slices to take to the beach, panini and more. You can take your delicacies outside onto their shaded terrace with panoramas over the sea, get a vending machine coffee to wash it all down. ☽ So why fly all the to Pantelleria island in the way, way South of Italy when you could have Amalfi, Capri, Cinqueterre or mainland Sicily? I think a lot about the way we ruin places by overrunning them. The very essence of what we come there for in the first place is slowly eroded by our very presence en masse.On Pantelleria the presence of tourists who made the trek to get here is balanced well with the local people and environment. There’s not too many of us, especially outside of busier July and August, and I hope the extra effort to get here will keep tourism on the island manageable and the nature relatively untouched.In return for making it all the way here, you’re rewarded with a slowness and a simplicity that’s really the only way to live here. You’ll experience an immersion in nature and the elements that’s so transformative and cleansing for the soul.☽ Check out my Pantelleria map to pin down all the spots featured in the story and more. https://thetravellinglight.com/Tuscany-s-Isola-d-Elba Tue, 14 Sep 2021 13:44:18 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Tuscany-s-Isola-d-Elba Bagni San Filippo Thermal Springs in Tuscany, ItalyTuscany’s Isola d’Elba travel&nbsp; tuscany&nbsp; italy <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0c915ad48529512e9457e45d4724b8fca942408855f92087ef219f5173b349f8/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02837.jpg" data-mid="125430983" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0c915ad48529512e9457e45d4724b8fca942408855f92087ef219f5173b349f8/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02837.jpg" />Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty The Isola d’Elba is surprisingly, for me anyway, found off the East coast of Tuscany in central Italy. Yes, the favourite Italian region of tourists everywhere, known for its rolling green countryside and hilltop towns, has an island too, several actually in the Tuscan Archipelago. Take the ferry from coastal Piombino and arrive on the island one hour later. In keeping with the region, it’s understated and naturally beautiful. At 50km east of the island of Corsica, it boasts those same clear waters and lush natural terrain. It’s not flashy or glamourous, there are no places to be seen, no jetset pack to be seen by. Its real drawcard is its wild bays and beaches. Nisporto Beach <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/328b57c4252ee7b6af273330511f2c89d6146692b586e72ac8402610b79e0813/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02742.jpg" data-mid="118887547" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/328b57c4252ee7b6af273330511f2c89d6146692b586e72ac8402610b79e0813/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02742.jpg" /> Elba is spread out, taking around an hour and a half to drive from one side to the other. So the decision of where to base ourselves became important if we wanted to spend our time on the beach, not in the car. In the end, it came down to a choice of only a few Airbnbs, last minute booker that I am, and we settled on a house in the bay of Nisporto. We were just 30 minutes’ drive from the port towns of Rio Marina and Portoferraio in either direction.The natural bay sits in a valley surrounded on three sides by tree-covered mountains. It’s a place that allowed us to effortlessly slip into the ultra-slow retiree beach life like the 60+ crowd that made up most of Nisporto’s clientele. Each morning we’d walk the five minutes from our house to the beach and laze under umbrellas on the pebbly shore for most of the sunshine hours. The rest of those hours were spent snorkelling and swimming, pedalling our hired pedalo boat out past the bay or fishing when the clouds sometimes rolled in. In September, it was never busy, with that end-of-summer feeling in the air. The locals had their beach back with a few stragglers like us still there. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0c37a2f86bdc7985b03090e900bb174705f45baf9f717f2dcb14c6457923ad24/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02754.jpg" data-mid="118887551" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0c37a2f86bdc7985b03090e900bb174705f45baf9f717f2dcb14c6457923ad24/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02754.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3cfa3333c08196d3fc9e9ee5c593cfc0374b573e3b1117f27fac8d64f6965eda/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02746.jpg" data-mid="118887548" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3cfa3333c08196d3fc9e9ee5c593cfc0374b573e3b1117f27fac8d64f6965eda/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02746.jpg" /> <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/01303997684d48ddb041fb7b1ec6c3aba96887cda44055abbaade39d1915f613/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02741.jpg" data-mid="118887530" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/01303997684d48ddb041fb7b1ec6c3aba96887cda44055abbaade39d1915f613/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02741.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9899729770e64b325a07ab1696beb61d5e3e2ef98e664050fd59b40e031d4fa1/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02772.jpg" data-mid="118887553" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9899729770e64b325a07ab1696beb61d5e3e2ef98e664050fd59b40e031d4fa1/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02772.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/067c1001f1590b53d72ec881d534fe1cc0ced69709c0aa29b452ea2f30a62f1a/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02788.jpg" data-mid="118887555" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/067c1001f1590b53d72ec881d534fe1cc0ced69709c0aa29b452ea2f30a62f1a/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02788.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/804615a6cfb12a38e92551052c59a8341d749b220c5c33e2059c2e90a949eead/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02791.jpg" data-mid="118887556" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/804615a6cfb12a38e92551052c59a8341d749b220c5c33e2059c2e90a949eead/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02791.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e271b6366f8f3a7b93ef76b866ef38c8ff18396250ef8fd8eaf17b82a7a6a6f9/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02783.jpg" data-mid="118887554" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e271b6366f8f3a7b93ef76b866ef38c8ff18396250ef8fd8eaf17b82a7a6a6f9/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02783.jpg" /><img width="2014" height="3000" width_o="2014" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0fcc4327a0009e282ce337e981ea79400d041231307b7b5c7efa9c4cc908c670/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02811.jpg" data-mid="118887559" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0fcc4327a0009e282ce337e981ea79400d041231307b7b5c7efa9c4cc908c670/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02811.jpg" /><img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/670e21f16287d6fc130e27a37b0f5d92776214d5f7781b3d688ab70d1decc59b/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02828.jpg" data-mid="118887564" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/670e21f16287d6fc130e27a37b0f5d92776214d5f7781b3d688ab70d1decc59b/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-italy-02828.jpg" /> Porto Ferraio <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3ebab615f786fa8d02cd6b1bf01f195a7b12a92c138922d2590056e974b7bc10/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02693.jpg" data-mid="125555036" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3ebab615f786fa8d02cd6b1bf01f195a7b12a92c138922d2590056e974b7bc10/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02693.jpg" />Any attempts we made to leave our little bay paradise mostly backfired. I felt like the universe was trying to tell me to stay put and enjoy what I had; it was perfect and all I really needed. Attempts to visit the island’s more famous beaches around Portoferraio were thwarted. One morning, we made it all the way to Sansone Beach, 40 minutes away, famed for its natural beauty, and couldn’t find a single free spot where we could lay our towels down. We quickly realised our beach was just as beautiful and headed back to our quiet paradise. <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f52ac59f4caeacb98695bd40f5795914de13b4dce00e6d115a2ae54e999a8061/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02879.jpg" data-mid="125435850" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f52ac59f4caeacb98695bd40f5795914de13b4dce00e6d115a2ae54e999a8061/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02879.jpg" /> No (towel) vacancies at Sansone Beach. Some outings went better. A morning in the port town of Portoferraio proved successful. I ate gelato for breakfast and wandered the town, snapping my favourite corners; the pink hues of the buildings and bougainvillea in bloom made my heart sing. As I passed the town hall, I even caught the end of a rowdy wedding ceremony and watched their jubilant procession walking together to a local bar to celebrate afterwards. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/08adff5faace2c231542d2c67fd16d106125757d0b15522ae010ad4a30118214/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02687.jpg" data-mid="125430950" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/08adff5faace2c231542d2c67fd16d106125757d0b15522ae010ad4a30118214/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02687.jpg" /><img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e3ff6e5c3893a7964a3e57647c9dd6a800f20ad4951d02ea990736765e8ae863/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02690.jpg" data-mid="125555037" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e3ff6e5c3893a7964a3e57647c9dd6a800f20ad4951d02ea990736765e8ae863/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02690.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/930dad2cb05a92fcf10fbc11fb9180ba0005fafdba287d9a41a86047f17798f2/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02689.jpg" data-mid="125430951" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/930dad2cb05a92fcf10fbc11fb9180ba0005fafdba287d9a41a86047f17798f2/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02689.jpg" /><img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d95d65ff6317a266d6f78a4777ec8db7a61d75b2d4442c5311a353570b517021/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02722.jpg" data-mid="125430960" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d95d65ff6317a266d6f78a4777ec8db7a61d75b2d4442c5311a353570b517021/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02722.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/12f8a8624af3b5f8fc3326f155dd8fcfc3fdeda969641d15414845ce77ef1ae0/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02678.jpg" data-mid="125430946" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/12f8a8624af3b5f8fc3326f155dd8fcfc3fdeda969641d15414845ce77ef1ae0/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02678.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6e783c79ba5b401895e489e5e4ad01078413bb94c1c063555955fab92d29f40e/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02684.jpg" data-mid="125451121" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6e783c79ba5b401895e489e5e4ad01078413bb94c1c063555955fab92d29f40e/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02684.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/876531def34fe8bef7b5f211d9d6b47d352a674a7f7d268e31988f92d321e720/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02704.jpg" data-mid="125430955" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/876531def34fe8bef7b5f211d9d6b47d352a674a7f7d268e31988f92d321e720/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02704.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/45529e38bf11eb39766dd54b838d40ed888fa5cb412d125faa71ed5e2ac88e46/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02733.jpg" data-mid="125430667" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/45529e38bf11eb39766dd54b838d40ed888fa5cb412d125faa71ed5e2ac88e46/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02733.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fb2aa9deac69d190c84b700d6cfed3cc06bae034f1badddc262e785b4542435e/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02737.jpg" data-mid="125430666" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/fb2aa9deac69d190c84b700d6cfed3cc06bae034f1badddc262e785b4542435e/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02737.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/97a6703ae2ef62cb69d15ae7a4b79792d13b01d13a0792c517c6a842899b15d5/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02727.jpg" data-mid="125430968" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/97a6703ae2ef62cb69d15ae7a4b79792d13b01d13a0792c517c6a842899b15d5/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02727.jpg" /> <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/27a400caa055f9b702ced49af3d491679b7948cea4d7bf4020eebf57247cb2bb/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02730.jpg" data-mid="125430668" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/27a400caa055f9b702ced49af3d491679b7948cea4d7bf4020eebf57247cb2bb/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02730.jpg" />Hike Monte Strega <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ddc281829ec0f3c5cd6c184b2aed13fd11966437528e0c6315ec23929f48b126/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02855.jpg" data-mid="125435929" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ddc281829ec0f3c5cd6c184b2aed13fd11966437528e0c6315ec23929f48b126/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02855.jpg" /> Sitting on the beach all day every day inevitably makes you restless. To walk longer than the distance from the house to the beach, we ventured 10 minutes up the hill by car to find the start of walking trail we’d noticed on the way in. It turned out to be the perfect spot to watch the sun set over the island, looking onto Portoferraio bay in the distance. Wild rosemary perfumed the air as we passed it, stumbling along the rocky uneven pathway. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/da785d9ad2b81c64c58984e64aa494f5ab5fa54a4b411edfa17f33dc982ebb06/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02848.jpg" data-mid="125430977" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/da785d9ad2b81c64c58984e64aa494f5ab5fa54a4b411edfa17f33dc982ebb06/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02848.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6b13d09198485c4419766bdca82c75db89c50d31a2611909cc297622b748e13d/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02851.jpg" data-mid="125435928" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6b13d09198485c4419766bdca82c75db89c50d31a2611909cc297622b748e13d/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02851.jpg" /> <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0d7cc33c998ca693f075662507004983b6bb70785b42e2aff3297c9f29004858/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02951.jpg" data-mid="125554942" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0d7cc33c998ca693f075662507004983b6bb70785b42e2aff3297c9f29004858/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02951.jpg" /> <img width="4500" height="3000" width_o="4500" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9034cda577a864549c576eee4d3fb088ddd2da9b520d8216f8cdc35fa4b96018/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02865.jpg" data-mid="125435933" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9034cda577a864549c576eee4d3fb088ddd2da9b520d8216f8cdc35fa4b96018/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02865.jpg" /> Eat + Drink <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7a0780fb030e70595f0ac841ed7b7b6f028e7367d661296a93a537fd3e9e9289/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02717.jpg" data-mid="125430958" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7a0780fb030e70595f0ac841ed7b7b6f028e7367d661296a93a537fd3e9e9289/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02717.jpg" /> A cute and classic Trattoria in Porto Ferraio at lunchtime. Whilst I wasn’t supposed to be on duty as a travel writer during my time in Elba, inevitably we ate and drank at some memorables places on the island. In Porto Azzuro Osteria Locanda Cecconi Modern Italian MagnEtico Bistro Vegetarian Ristorante Delfino Verde Classic Seafood El Curandero Cocktails Enoteca i Sapori del Sole Wine Bar In Portoferraio Gelateria Zero Gradi Gelato Teatro Bistro &amp; Wine Bar Modern Italian with a view Orto dei Semplici Elbano <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d2f0eac8d2e8975169724571139eccc5fa214334b0a1a99c2a9618f3d888409b/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02889.jpg" data-mid="125436056" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d2f0eac8d2e8975169724571139eccc5fa214334b0a1a99c2a9618f3d888409b/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02889.jpg" /> On an overcast afternoon, we drove up the mountain 15 minutes from Nisporto Bay to explore this curious botanical garden we’d passed several times. At the tail end of summer, the garden was far from abundant but rosemary and sage, persimmons and wildflowers still grew among other plants I’d never seen before. The garden was started in the 1990’s to keep ethnobotanical traditions of the Tuscan Archipelago alive. Native plant species with pharmaceutical, agricultural or naturalistic value, some of which are unique or rare or run the risk of becoming extinct, have been found, picked,&nbsp; classified and put on display in the gardens. My favourite section contained religious plants of past civilizations. Situated next to the Santa Caterina Hermitage up high in the mountains, the very Tuscan, understated design of the gardens also includes art made from natural materials dotted throughout the grounds. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/719ddeaa8fcb9fab215bad3548643bacb4e475040fb1d434d56317da3cbb10bb/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02930.jpg" data-mid="125436061" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/719ddeaa8fcb9fab215bad3548643bacb4e475040fb1d434d56317da3cbb10bb/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02930.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/745e651616a073cb67a27f765bec748e0af96c965083ad23bbe22f3982ced1bc/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02917.jpg" data-mid="125436059" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/745e651616a073cb67a27f765bec748e0af96c965083ad23bbe22f3982ced1bc/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02917.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/49d18a8a41829bb98af7748b690cad0d8d7d32cc892556e63368b7d18af6ffda/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02919.jpg" data-mid="125436060" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/49d18a8a41829bb98af7748b690cad0d8d7d32cc892556e63368b7d18af6ffda/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02919.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f90398b6d1014b46250720ab2a0ce654b7732fa8fdc661f6d1cb8399c12686f1/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02905.jpg" data-mid="125436055" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f90398b6d1014b46250720ab2a0ce654b7732fa8fdc661f6d1cb8399c12686f1/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02905.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a6627eb01b4289d3e2ccbd430c61525d0a8789573b4a1bd214c3395876892898/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02936.jpg" data-mid="125436076" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a6627eb01b4289d3e2ccbd430c61525d0a8789573b4a1bd214c3395876892898/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02936.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e01616ecd172cc62d5fb6ae7e81300cac72085d2dd4d87d299b393ed63fe2ff3/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02908.jpg" data-mid="125436057" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e01616ecd172cc62d5fb6ae7e81300cac72085d2dd4d87d299b393ed63fe2ff3/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02908.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c5e48094cc6dcf25ac7a885d78bde0b139c6c8362bd6eb546eedd2b112dcc1f0/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02910.jpg" data-mid="125436058" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c5e48094cc6dcf25ac7a885d78bde0b139c6c8362bd6eb546eedd2b112dcc1f0/the-travelling-light-elba-tuscany-02910.jpg" /> ☾ The Isola d’Elba is an understated alternative to the flashier, pricier beach destinations in Italy like Capri or the Amalfi coast. Here you enjoy the good Italian life in a natural, slow-paced setting, finding your own little beach haven to call your own for a while. https://thetravellinglight.com/South-Goa Wed, 03 Feb 2021 14:23:58 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/South-Goa Bagni San Filippo Thermal Springs in Tuscany, ItalySouth Goa travel&nbsp; india <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c7b02f7d5f64ddfcd6deb1f775561ff836e750841e7e975ee4d2d55d5439faca/edited-35.jpg" data-mid="100663733" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c7b02f7d5f64ddfcd6deb1f775561ff836e750841e7e975ee4d2d55d5439faca/edited-35.jpg" /> Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty I spent two weeks floating around South Goa’s beaches one very hot April at the tail end of the tourist season. The quieter alternative to North Goa’s party scene, it’s closer to the unspoilt paradise I always imagined sixties and seventies Goa to be, with just a hint of hippie. I was looking for a beach to while away a few weeks in India fresh off the back of 21 days in an Ayurvedic retreat in Kerala. I’d meditated, practised yoga, read books and generally abstained from anything even remotely resembling a party for three weeks. I was in no state to tackle North Goa’s party scene. I’d scoured the Tripadvisor reviews, too many, of North Goa’s beaches; each one sounded more like a Mykonos day rave than the last. It sounded so far from the utopia that attracted international travellers to Goa during the flower power years. Freethinkers aplenty fled the west in the sixties and seventies to live an alternative existence in North Goa: more spiritual, less materialistic. Now that place seemed to be gone. I opted for the beaches of South Goa instead. Many years behind its northern counterpart in terms of tourism and infrastructure, South Goa looked and sounded like the kind of place where bungalows and shacks still lined the sand and beaches were still beaches, not bars, much closer to the down-to-earth Goa I was searching for. Palolem Beach <img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a3a1153160487fa8b18760fdcf2859d7b9aaca7cf32559109081d24e709c90ff/edited-.jpg" data-mid="97622843" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a3a1153160487fa8b18760fdcf2859d7b9aaca7cf32559109081d24e709c90ff/edited-.jpg" /> We choose to base ourselves at Palolem Beach, a wide bay with long, gentle waves. Palm trees fringe the curved shore, growing dense and tall, dominating the manmade structures housing hotels and cafes. We walk the beach the first afternoon of our arrival and find open-air, sandy-floored thatched-roof cafes with fans whirring and simple, unassuming shacks to sleep in where air-con is optional and extra. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e104b7d5c3b9d2338dd49a20a5647194bd23a1b7744eb3686d1b9c95c1ab6b10/edited--7.jpg" data-mid="97623333" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e104b7d5c3b9d2338dd49a20a5647194bd23a1b7744eb3686d1b9c95c1ab6b10/edited--7.jpg" />It’s without a doubt a beach set up for tourism, but not just for foreign tourists; plenty of local kids run around in the sand, Indian families walk along the beach together at dusk and fisherman casting huge nets together in the waves after the sun goes down. <img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/75103910a477c9ac690cdd64adbe8a557abd4c3df00c91edcaafcd26a8b7ba1b/_MG_5440-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97623453" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/75103910a477c9ac690cdd64adbe8a557abd4c3df00c91edcaafcd26a8b7ba1b/_MG_5440-palolem.jpg" /> With even cheaper deals on beach bungalows and shacks at this time of year, we easily find a place we like just by walking around with backpacks on. Our shack is perched on the very top of a hill all on its own, very Robinson Crusoe-style, with a rickety wooden balcony overlooking the wide expanse of the bay. Faded patterned curtains temper the hot sun outside and a blue mosquito net and seventies-style quilt adorn the bed; it feels pretty close to the back-to-basics, barefoot image of Goa I’d held in mind. We institute a candlight-only rule at night, partly for the mood, partly so as not to encourage the many insistent mosquitos even further. The day we arrive we discover there’s a statewide ban on the sale of alcohol during the next five days of our stay; it’s the lead-up to an important election and they want everyone as sober as possible. So my abstinence continues, perfect for a post-Ayurvedic retreat come-down and my re-entry into the real world. <img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c8532f284db71de2777fe3b94aef6718c1a0cf1dd5463017537e88715de1fae3/_MG_5450-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97623452" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c8532f284db71de2777fe3b94aef6718c1a0cf1dd5463017537e88715de1fae3/_MG_5450-palolem.jpg" /> The mosquitos and the rising heat do win in the end though and after five days, we move from our very Goa accommodation to something less dreamy, more modern: an air-conditioned apartment in a town close by. We can cook and get some work done here with the wi fi and feel cool and clean for a while in between outings. <img width="2013" height="3036" width_o="2013" height_o="3036" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a3843ec52c0845e86b242fdbba4adbdcce0fe9c7a7f2a6e6a1bc90f4bc172576/edited-24.jpg" data-mid="97623592" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a3843ec52c0845e86b242fdbba4adbdcce0fe9c7a7f2a6e6a1bc90f4bc172576/edited-24.jpg" />Outside our new apartment in a nearby town. Even with our fancy new apartment, we keep going back to Palolem Beach and getting our feet sandy every day, eating meals and swimming at the beach there. We find our favourite places we like along the main road behind the beach, christened Palolem Down Street, and it makes me giggle every time I see the signs announcing the street name. Downtown anything when it comes to Palolem doesn’t seem like the right word for this beautifully undeveloped place. It’s lined with stalls, shops and cafes, some more thrown together and impermanent looking than others. <img width="3086" height="2046" width_o="3086" height_o="2046" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5ff9c147a7e5f4ea9f7d4275fe6c4f43aabdc1e254ac8b4b33a1a2d5dbd6c977/edited-21.jpg" data-mid="97623356" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5ff9c147a7e5f4ea9f7d4275fe6c4f43aabdc1e254ac8b4b33a1a2d5dbd6c977/edited-21.jpg" /><img width="3047" height="2020" width_o="3047" height_o="2020" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/63fb3201badf25988438f793d819bbffc028611a647070b6e462d9fdba1fdb6f/edited--9.jpg" data-mid="97623325" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/63fb3201badf25988438f793d819bbffc028611a647070b6e462d9fdba1fdb6f/edited--9.jpg" /><img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e83f104e9e66cbd71bbe9e36865078e107dd86adb777c12774d79f7659de1d3d/edited--8.jpg" data-mid="97623326" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e83f104e9e66cbd71bbe9e36865078e107dd86adb777c12774d79f7659de1d3d/edited--8.jpg" /> <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fc08866a10ed363ce5dcc833da4aceab86713d73105bd3d21b9a2912aa9dde50/edited--12.jpg" data-mid="97623354" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/fc08866a10ed363ce5dcc833da4aceab86713d73105bd3d21b9a2912aa9dde50/edited--12.jpg" /> Dropadi restaurant, a local institution, and its sandy floors blurring boundaries between beach and bar/restaurant. We find our favourite spots:&nbsp;Shree Ganesh, an Indian cafe housed within a bright pastel-painted concrete box serving traditional thali plates and our favourite dosas (rice and lentil pancakes served with all manner of chutnies and sauces, heart-breakingly only served at breakfast time), Little World, a health food cafe offering vegetarian salads and breakfasts with an Indian twist, Dropadi on the beach side, what seems to be an institution that’s always full, serving fresh seafood cooked on the barbecue with indian spices and sauces. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ac744ccd9060040d9a71204aacf812f3580aaccd154a2d8660841aa0a34c0fc3/edited-22.jpg" data-mid="97623590" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ac744ccd9060040d9a71204aacf812f3580aaccd154a2d8660841aa0a34c0fc3/edited-22.jpg" /><img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fc3ebd1bd8cf806a42bfd2eace3351685585cd845f794ad2125da9796ae8cb2f/edited-2.jpg" data-mid="97622841" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/fc3ebd1bd8cf806a42bfd2eace3351685585cd845f794ad2125da9796ae8cb2f/edited-2.jpg" /> <img width="2075" height="3130" width_o="2075" height_o="3130" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/dd2c49bad6b892cf7d61906347cd0cf41323a20cb135c7f8de2b2ba0b700dc8c/edited-1.jpg" data-mid="97622844" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/dd2c49bad6b892cf7d61906347cd0cf41323a20cb135c7f8de2b2ba0b700dc8c/edited-1.jpg" /> <img width="1631" height="2460" width_o="1631" height_o="2460" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7934ae86fda89b12fe9255a348a1a1d2c00f8d17fe75fd90a453039d2c88733f/edited--6.jpg" data-mid="97623323" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7934ae86fda89b12fe9255a348a1a1d2c00f8d17fe75fd90a453039d2c88733f/edited--6.jpg" /> Getting Around <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/402dffec4b9f5164b77b065c96a40a8bcacc5fa63060419c3101dc43355f1654/edited-23.jpg" data-mid="97623591" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/402dffec4b9f5164b77b065c96a40a8bcacc5fa63060419c3101dc43355f1654/edited-23.jpg" /> In town, on the road to Palolem Beach. As soon as we arrive, we head out to find a scooter to rent; it’s not hard. We ask around along the main ‘Downtown’ street and we easily find a guy renting them. We give him a tiny deposit and he gives us the keys to our scooter for the next week, no passport, address or even first name required. They seem to rent to tourists based on the honour system which I find charming. We use our scooter to get around Palolem and to start exploring the other beaches of South Goa. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8f750442551abf49cc169fc681c0d7b3207d0fa78c04f47e86933be246cc55e9/edited--2.jpg" data-mid="97624785" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8f750442551abf49cc169fc681c0d7b3207d0fa78c04f47e86933be246cc55e9/edited--2.jpg" /> Delightfully wild scene by the side of the highway. Agonda Beach <img width="1915" height="2888" width_o="1915" height_o="2888" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/48ea7cc26d6f8091a16883750587b1b3a2586ee9542d4b100598cdf25c24e1c9/edited-25.jpg" data-mid="97623593" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/48ea7cc26d6f8091a16883750587b1b3a2586ee9542d4b100598cdf25c24e1c9/edited-25.jpg" /> We venture to Agonda Beach a few times and find a more modern, slightly more developed strip of sand, the beach is longer and more exposed to the elements than Palolem Beach; we almost get blown away one windy afternoon there.Agonda is noticeably more upmarket than our base at Palolem, a little more yippy (short for yuppy-hippy) than hippy. We come to love this area for its modern, hipster cafes, our favourite is Kopi Desa for the international food and cocktails in a cool and chill beachy setting. One evening, we walk along the sand after dinner and discover phosphoresence in the sea and sand, a magical luminous glow emanating from millions of tiny marine organisms. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ddb42ba12cba03ec18bcf897f815aef04b106512f113144e7b8cd8344743b30d/edited-26.jpg" data-mid="97623594" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ddb42ba12cba03ec18bcf897f815aef04b106512f113144e7b8cd8344743b30d/edited-26.jpg" /> <img width="2075" height="3130" width_o="2075" height_o="3130" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e4db2cc78b4b389e8149eb9e217c4be91cf230315a49b38090cd69c836f4d048/edited-28.jpg" data-mid="97623597" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e4db2cc78b4b389e8149eb9e217c4be91cf230315a49b38090cd69c836f4d048/edited-28.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/327d411074104601aa6e6aee6b0dbc85cf4ce16ad2b91d06a34c2be52b349a67/_MG_5436.jpg" data-mid="100284770" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/327d411074104601aa6e6aee6b0dbc85cf4ce16ad2b91d06a34c2be52b349a67/_MG_5436.jpg" /> Right, cashew apples, both contain a seed: the cashew “nut”. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9b21b06244e0fd438b840ffe5915951bbb50fac49647d70f44ea44d9e2931d53/edited-30.jpg" data-mid="97623599" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9b21b06244e0fd438b840ffe5915951bbb50fac49647d70f44ea44d9e2931d53/edited-30.jpg" /><img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d352423b8eb92e58dd29bf99caf42be3266216d8513624677963716b82c9e72b/edited-27.jpg" data-mid="97623596" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d352423b8eb92e58dd29bf99caf42be3266216d8513624677963716b82c9e72b/edited-27.jpg" /> <img width="2075" height="3130" width_o="2075" height_o="3130" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/07cd9b760a7d0b0931d5cff2899e9186e518465caedcab1dd12e51b9a7fbac09/edited-31.jpg" data-mid="97623600" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/07cd9b760a7d0b0931d5cff2899e9186e518465caedcab1dd12e51b9a7fbac09/edited-31.jpg" /> <img width="2075" height="3130" width_o="2075" height_o="3130" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/dc7c9069db6a1029a27078bff1844108589d8c1b6a5937399d5eaa0ba0220143/edited-32.jpg" data-mid="97623602" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/dc7c9069db6a1029a27078bff1844108589d8c1b6a5937399d5eaa0ba0220143/edited-32.jpg" /> At Sunset <img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7ea7bb808fa6d8c940d36b7bdd365da1a5c8fea866ead3750b889b037cc84d53/_MG_5487-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97623455" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7ea7bb808fa6d8c940d36b7bdd365da1a5c8fea866ead3750b889b037cc84d53/_MG_5487-palolem.jpg" />It starts to get too hot to venture outside into the sun during the days; I start to feel the necessity of the imminent arrival of the monsoon season to break this relentless heat. We start working during the days, reteating inside our air-conditioned apartment to our laptops and the wi fi.For digital nomads and anyone looking to bring their laptop with them to South Goa, I can definitely recommend finding a clean, air-conditioned apartment with wireless Internet (check the reviews of the Internet quality!) just off the beach around Palolem or Agonda. The internet worked fairly well where I was, though at the time I went (2018) it wasn’t good enough for a reliable video call, and there were minimal power cuts during my stay. Every day, we wait until the sun goes down and then drive the short drive to Palolem beach for our daily beach trip. We watch the light fade immersed in the warm water, riding the gentle waves, only emerging after it gets too dark to see. The water stays warm enough to keep us warm even without the sun’s rays.We’re not the only and definitely not the first ones with this ingenious sunset beach trip idea. Local families, the women is beautiful saris, stroll the shore together too at this time of day and fishermen get together in groups to cast their nets out into the waves. <img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7fedc88a55ea22420f444b6f46f3b3362afd596db0366253cca1f18593f067c5/_MG_5507-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97625197" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7fedc88a55ea22420f444b6f46f3b3362afd596db0366253cca1f18593f067c5/_MG_5507-palolem.jpg" /><img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c6af1955a431fcf2059cf2a59b6733c9b41f2c63b26a636fdde83c2d95f14b01/_MG_5530-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97625196" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c6af1955a431fcf2059cf2a59b6733c9b41f2c63b26a636fdde83c2d95f14b01/_MG_5530-palolem.jpg" /><img width="1800" height="1200" width_o="1800" height_o="1200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1fc6e06de3c56b12fc816622f64a2ef43e78a7e32040fb3195fe0032c53638aa/_MG_5555-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97625198" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1fc6e06de3c56b12fc816622f64a2ef43e78a7e32040fb3195fe0032c53638aa/_MG_5555-palolem.jpg" /><img width="1340" height="2000" width_o="1340" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/10c80d06bb82887322c66b2b3e8a0bd26f2fb7da1e239c78d01b56a62e08f1e5/_MG_5457-palolem.jpg" data-mid="97623454" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/10c80d06bb82887322c66b2b3e8a0bd26f2fb7da1e239c78d01b56a62e08f1e5/_MG_5457-palolem.jpg" />&nbsp;A Palolem Beach sunset from our beach bungalow on the hill.In spite of all my nostalgic fantasies, I’m quite sure nothing could ever come close to the real-deal, free-love Goa of the sixties and seventies. From what I eventually saw for myself of North Goa though, the southern beaches around Palolem and Agonda offered something closer to that ideal than the original hallowed grounds. North Goa didn’t seem in desperate need of any more tourists; even at the end of the season it was clear the huge impact over-tourism has had on the area. The good news: a new sustainability and conservation plan is being implemented in the area, more on this topic: 7 Awesome Ways Goa is Going Green and Reinventing Goa, India’s Hedonistic Beach Hideaway. While the Goa we’ve all read about might be long gone, there’s still something special here in South Goa for the flower-power, peace-and-wild-loving soul. With down-to-earth, barefoot beach towns, natural, undeveloped beaches, a mix of local Indian eateries and vegan-leaning healthfood cafes, the modern hippie can find their nirvana here. Follow my South Goa map with a few of my favourite spots pinned down including the beach bungalow where we stayed. https://thetravellinglight.com/Venice-Islands-Guide Sat, 09 May 2020 07:59:20 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Venice-Islands-Guide Venice &amp; Islands Guide: Off the Beaten PathVenice &amp; Islands Guide travel&nbsp; veneto&nbsp; italy <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/32e4a0a550eb54816b5c4fb69e004596fd2131effd058b7695e729d21eb1799e/venice_the-travelling-light-0444.jpg" data-mid="104560479" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/32e4a0a550eb54816b5c4fb69e004596fd2131effd058b7695e729d21eb1799e/venice_the-travelling-light-0444.jpg" /> I visited Venice in February 2020, just as we were starting to talk about a new virus circulating in China, right before it would lock all of Italy away, send the tourists home and make the city a ghost town. The annual Carnevale festival was in full swing, these were some of the busiest days of the year in the island city. Piazza San Marco was more packed than I’d ever seen it; people wandered the canalsides and the porticos in costume. We took photos and got carried by the crowds and brushed up against one another like it was nothing. I hope one day soon, this pandemic will be a distant memory and I’ll have to re-write this introduction. But for now it seems right to include it. I know many of you are missing Italy, and I’m missing it too; even if I live here, I’ve only seen one tiny part, the 30 km radius surrounding my town, for months and months now. So here’s my photo tour of Venice alongside my personal favourite spots in the city and its islands.First rule of Venice: get the hell out of Venice There’s no way around it, Venice and its crowds can be overwhelming. If you need a day or two to warm up to the masses, take my Dad’s advice, his mantra when we would arrive together in Venice: “the first rule of Venice: get the hell out of Venice”. Venice the city takes up only two of the 118 small islands in the Venice lagoon. Take the water bus, an activity in itself, and explore some of the other islands with their own merits, in relative peace. San Giorgio Maggiore IslandAnother reason to get the hell out of Venice? Some of the best views and photo spots of the city are from a little bell tower inside a church, Campanile di San Giorgio Maggiore, on this island, very close to Venice. Looking back onto busy San Marco, you can see and capture all the grandeur of Venice’s landmarks, architecture and beauty from here. Venissa, Mazzorbo IslandFrom the more famous island of Burano, a tiny footbridge leads you away from the island’s insta-famous brightly-coloured houses to neighbouring Mazzorbo Island. Here you’ll find Venissa, a unique farm-to-table, michelin-starred restaurant and more informal (read: affordable) osteria, with a few rooms to stay the night too. Within a walled vineyard, wander the vegetable gardens supplying Venissa’s kitchens and spot the famed Mazzorbo artichoke growing plentifully. Lido di VeneziaVenice’s answer to the Italian Riviera is its&nbsp;Lido di Venezia, lido literally translating to ‘beach’ in English. You can sprawl out in the sand or rent an umbrella and chair and have a beach day here. And on the walk there from the ferry stop, take your time wandering the residential streets, marvelling at the grand mansions and grounds of bygone eras. Giudecca IslandOn Giudecca, you’ll find Casa dei Tre Oci, an international photography museum housed in a 1900’s neo-gothic palace. Have a sunset drink afterwards on the outdoor terrace of&nbsp;I Figli Delle Stelle and take in another incredible view back to Venice. If you’re feeling fancy, dress up in your finest and walk confidently through to the famed Cipriani hotel’s inner courtyard bar and order a prosecco with the other glamorous guests. When you’re ready to tackle Venice Peggy Guggenheim CollectionAmerican heiress Peggy Guggenheim lived in this 18th century palace for 30 years, and in 1951, began opening her home to the public from April to September every year to view her private art collection. An avid collector and spotter of talented artists of the time, she amassed work from some of the most important European and American artists of the twentieth century, all on view today here. Walk the rooms she walked as her home, in awe of the low-ceiling palace with a distinctly modern aesthetic set along the Venice’s Grand Canal. Bacari Bacaro is the Venetian word for a very specific kind of bar serving the traditional Venetian aperitivo of a small glass of wine, ombra de vin, with small bites to eat, usually something delicious on a slice of bread,&nbsp;cicchetti. My favourite bacaro spots: Un Mondo Divino,&nbsp;a small, wood-beamed wine bar serving up traditional cicchetti and regional wines. Osteria al Portego,&nbsp;a few minutes away from the busy Rialto Bridge, somehow far away from the crowds, with a special counter for traditional cicchetti. Al Timon, right on the edge of a smaller canalway, guests often sprawl out onto the bar’s own boat sat right in the water. Stay for dinner too if you can get a table. Enoteca al Volto another wooden wine bar with the special feel of an ancient bacari. Al Fresco DIY Jetty Aperitivo The best and cheapest aperitivo spot is not a bacaro bar at all, it’s your own private aperitivo picnic right on a jetty on the Grand Canal. Bring your own drinks and snacks and picnic right with legs dangling over the water as the boats pass you by.&nbsp;Here’s my secret spot, at the end of the Calla del Dose da Ponte. Special times of the year to visit VeniceVenice Biennale of ArtEvery two years, in what I’ve heard described as ‘the olympics of the art world’, for six whole months, the Biennale di Venezia takes over the water-logged city. As well as a main curated exhibition, countries from around the globe take over various historic and modern venues across the city for a selection of their national artists to occupy. Side cultural events and exhibitions pop up all around Venice too during the Biennale. The next festival will take place in 2022 from late April to November. CarnevaleAnother really fun time to be in Venice is February for Carnevale. Every year, to celebrate the last days before lent, Venetians make it count with events organised all over the city, masquerade-style costume optional but advised. There’s something extra magical about wandering the city as a masked person in full ballgown and up-do saunters past you casually. While it’s definitely advised to book early and brace yourself for the crowds, it’s definitely worth it for the spectacle and the energy. Venice &amp; Islands MapWords by Katie McKnoultyPhotos by Katie McKnoulty and Filippo Carbonari <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/536ac0a4824a26b04ad1a49b9a75ffa7d33add2004c61c7353c1b9d52d0dee0b/venice_the-travelling-light-0336.jpg" data-mid="104563229" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/536ac0a4824a26b04ad1a49b9a75ffa7d33add2004c61c7353c1b9d52d0dee0b/venice_the-travelling-light-0336.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d111c731f6ea48b82883e9bb2a5d9fa16c226a063153ac9c253d92eae82acaee/venice_the-travelling-light-0309.jpg" data-mid="104560335" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d111c731f6ea48b82883e9bb2a5d9fa16c226a063153ac9c253d92eae82acaee/venice_the-travelling-light-0309.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4824c41bff5c8d45d7b0aaf8ff7172e41d3cd879f61edc4629d7f9efbe093e6c/venice_the-travelling-light-0332.jpg" data-mid="104563228" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4824c41bff5c8d45d7b0aaf8ff7172e41d3cd879f61edc4629d7f9efbe093e6c/venice_the-travelling-light-0332.jpg" /><img width="1340" height="2010" width_o="1340" height_o="2010" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/908e56f5188a6848f1186e8edbcae3dab4a749ff51d3961a213cb7dd24b0ee09/9846-venice-the-travelling-light.jpg" data-mid="104563230" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/908e56f5188a6848f1186e8edbcae3dab4a749ff51d3961a213cb7dd24b0ee09/9846-venice-the-travelling-light.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9cff978247b8480b4c5ecfbe3e24fe2888033ac52794afbdc659d8cebd43eb6f/venice_the-travelling-light-0354.jpg" data-mid="104563234" border="0" 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data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/72c7d5aa937495cfaf8628b8af7f38b76d5e35a670703f3ce092fe01d5dba68d/venice_the-travelling-light-0361.jpg" data-mid="104563237" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/72c7d5aa937495cfaf8628b8af7f38b76d5e35a670703f3ce092fe01d5dba68d/venice_the-travelling-light-0361.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/14fe3462d88616ecce77a142743906ff6ccc1ec5b57c8b758bdfa4bc3b1ed959/venice_the-travelling-light-0364.jpg" data-mid="104563239" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/14fe3462d88616ecce77a142743906ff6ccc1ec5b57c8b758bdfa4bc3b1ed959/venice_the-travelling-light-0364.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/dc1ecf2d6019287fb582619fb85a2e30244a39ae29da4a8f2ca8d05603e1a0fe/venice_the-travelling-light-0376.jpg" data-mid="104563254" border="0" 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data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f7065f0827baae1de1be4723ce60209cd9b6c659aec65dfebe65875aca249833/venice_the-travelling-light-0369.jpg" data-mid="104563253" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f7065f0827baae1de1be4723ce60209cd9b6c659aec65dfebe65875aca249833/venice_the-travelling-light-0369.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/275b0773692bf6ade088492b37bf50fc7dae0c7765d8b40b3c433da8340e94a5/venice_the-travelling-light-0368.jpg" data-mid="104563252" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/275b0773692bf6ade088492b37bf50fc7dae0c7765d8b40b3c433da8340e94a5/venice_the-travelling-light-0368.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7005082d710fb20e690dcf5ef1d50d7fbbd6b48274090a76b59ead20409401d2/venice_the-travelling-light-0422.jpg" data-mid="104560500" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7005082d710fb20e690dcf5ef1d50d7fbbd6b48274090a76b59ead20409401d2/venice_the-travelling-light-0422.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9c5e123b75581c6dc8b1e6bf2fd66f832fed69dc4aaf28342637b124620e4650/venice_the-travelling-light-0395.jpg" data-mid="104564140" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9c5e123b75581c6dc8b1e6bf2fd66f832fed69dc4aaf28342637b124620e4650/venice_the-travelling-light-0395.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5c6785a8616a28788316a527b5598aa311b8927e2f2e7e5602fa7587a8b65949/venice_the-travelling-light-0445.jpg" data-mid="105843336" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5c6785a8616a28788316a527b5598aa311b8927e2f2e7e5602fa7587a8b65949/venice_the-travelling-light-0445.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8639c19fe1912134dfada80114a22ec898942c46b5676dfbc11258fe16bac0a4/venice-the-travelling-light-9630.jpg" data-mid="104563906" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8639c19fe1912134dfada80114a22ec898942c46b5676dfbc11258fe16bac0a4/venice-the-travelling-light-9630.jpg" />Views back to Venice from Campanile di San Giorgio Maggiore (bell tower). <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/91ef044c090dfada849b621659701b15d197b2ee60d174619364db2f55b80a2e/venice_the-travelling-light-0416.jpg" data-mid="104564132" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/91ef044c090dfada849b621659701b15d197b2ee60d174619364db2f55b80a2e/venice_the-travelling-light-0416.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0d83e1a60a46d26e4d3e2d27fa2a6b0ae1f7e94d24ba3a8717255374873db987/venice_the-travelling-light-0411.jpg" data-mid="104564133" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0d83e1a60a46d26e4d3e2d27fa2a6b0ae1f7e94d24ba3a8717255374873db987/venice_the-travelling-light-0411.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/eb3920e97e3ab7f8624d753d884cc5d859b7f077a6d7296d8e90ee7d730a7f03/venice_the-travelling-light-0408.jpg" data-mid="104564138" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/eb3920e97e3ab7f8624d753d884cc5d859b7f077a6d7296d8e90ee7d730a7f03/venice_the-travelling-light-0408.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3b829b3af8f4320f5a50df6bcb0689a65eca8e669f4894353c37c4a1d7460e6b/venice_the-travelling-light-0418.jpg" data-mid="104564122" border="0" 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data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/678d727193123fcc709b95afa99d6fd4ff3937f6141e02681faccc2706bf81f6/venice_the-travelling-light-0381.jpg" data-mid="104563262" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/678d727193123fcc709b95afa99d6fd4ff3937f6141e02681faccc2706bf81f6/venice_the-travelling-light-0381.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d45db05b2705e86dee65b1310956b1776b6a4042682fc3f0332eb001b5767374/venice_the-travelling-light-9861.jpg" data-mid="104563901" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d45db05b2705e86dee65b1310956b1776b6a4042682fc3f0332eb001b5767374/venice_the-travelling-light-9861.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/413b30e529b338aec6d5c48c9765bd726807279b8cbc128701ad155348257f34/venice_the-travelling-light-9864.jpg" data-mid="104563903" border="0" 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data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/78ceea7fd725984c452a441e74837236e6d45004f483780290a10d931b2aefef/venice_the-travelling-light-0515.jpg" data-mid="104560478" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/78ceea7fd725984c452a441e74837236e6d45004f483780290a10d931b2aefef/venice_the-travelling-light-0515.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/140922567ef705e724bae6554291c9183f3fc950a7c80a05ceacc522a91e42b1/venice_the-travelling-light-0500.jpg" data-mid="104563913" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/140922567ef705e724bae6554291c9183f3fc950a7c80a05ceacc522a91e42b1/venice_the-travelling-light-0500.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ba1df7a538e67ea6bb713ddc40b5e0e19a201ae9584a1cff234e70531c095622/venice_the-travelling-light-0505.jpg" data-mid="104563909" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ba1df7a538e67ea6bb713ddc40b5e0e19a201ae9584a1cff234e70531c095622/venice_the-travelling-light-0505.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/690e9f290b4fa9c520062c1b7193b634d5f6e2ea9812eed2fbbf1bded38e34c8/venice_the-travelling-light-0482.jpg" data-mid="104563925" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/690e9f290b4fa9c520062c1b7193b634d5f6e2ea9812eed2fbbf1bded38e34c8/venice_the-travelling-light-0482.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f03e17f230a514cfdfe439158e9c416a80caad15e2a2445a17b0f0cfff7531b5/venice_the-travelling-light-0480.jpg" data-mid="104563926" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f03e17f230a514cfdfe439158e9c416a80caad15e2a2445a17b0f0cfff7531b5/venice_the-travelling-light-0480.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a2a07bc1fda1bd83899ef74854cefda6c531c8a64328074b254fd3caa8a9ef19/venice_the-travelling-light-0490.jpg" data-mid="104563919" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a2a07bc1fda1bd83899ef74854cefda6c531c8a64328074b254fd3caa8a9ef19/venice_the-travelling-light-0490.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1d23515b60db87e13821b556c66d3885b0198c2747ab35571de93e6ac6ea1cb5/venice_the-travelling-light-0522.jpg" data-mid="104560480" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1d23515b60db87e13821b556c66d3885b0198c2747ab35571de93e6ac6ea1cb5/venice_the-travelling-light-0522.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8a6a76f542d2a445929539f61edd6db4cca0908000a29dc63d367d93ed94b297/venice_the-travelling-light-0531.jpg" data-mid="104560481" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8a6a76f542d2a445929539f61edd6db4cca0908000a29dc63d367d93ed94b297/venice_the-travelling-light-0531.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e02d11255668e0ce55b1507b77343329059206d88fab038c9c301786917935b9/venice_the-travelling-light-0538.jpg" data-mid="104560482" border="0" data-scale="100" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e02d11255668e0ce55b1507b77343329059206d88fab038c9c301786917935b9/venice_the-travelling-light-0538.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5562f84e087133f5208b8f9ea2807d6a8727fcc93f9ca6739ebde4473d7ca512/venice_the-travelling-light-0540.jpg" data-mid="104560483" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5562f84e087133f5208b8f9ea2807d6a8727fcc93f9ca6739ebde4473d7ca512/venice_the-travelling-light-0540.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/862a964e06b0b2cce6c9472fa869d2050d3ecb7ba4ce6777a4bd08d838fc34f4/venice_the-travelling-light-0254.jpg" data-mid="104564589" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/862a964e06b0b2cce6c9472fa869d2050d3ecb7ba4ce6777a4bd08d838fc34f4/venice_the-travelling-light-0254.jpg" /> BYO and DIY aperitivo spot right on the Grand Canal, find the spot here. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6164856db675be046055f1fc38179feb0e80f3ca639bff41be9b5499b04a9143/venice_the-travelling-light-0290.jpg" data-mid="104565160" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6164856db675be046055f1fc38179feb0e80f3ca639bff41be9b5499b04a9143/venice_the-travelling-light-0290.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/6ed8fafd82d2f23fdfca956c47760c48fa00de51fa90b766e50dc9c555e161d1/venice_the-travelling-light-0291.jpg" data-mid="104565161" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/6ed8fafd82d2f23fdfca956c47760c48fa00de51fa90b766e50dc9c555e161d1/venice_the-travelling-light-0291.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/36c0912164e6395146549bafa9227990f6f32f5741ca2a998c8678601f7da54b/venice_the-travelling-light-0293.jpg" data-mid="104565163" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/36c0912164e6395146549bafa9227990f6f32f5741ca2a998c8678601f7da54b/venice_the-travelling-light-0293.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/100f43e164f081b503ae748b4c24197fc23fffa7035f51db05a0bd65d0a0bb1a/venice_the-travelling-light-0292.jpg" data-mid="104565162" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/100f43e164f081b503ae748b4c24197fc23fffa7035f51db05a0bd65d0a0bb1a/venice_the-travelling-light-0292.jpg" /> https://thetravellinglight.com/Gressoney-Aosta-Valley Thu, 10 Dec 2020 14:11:22 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Gressoney-Aosta-Valley Bagni San Filippo Thermal Springs in Tuscany, ItalyGressoney, Aosta Valley travel&nbsp; aosta valley&nbsp; italy <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/651e221af8bda3b6d10b32e0246bd204c8f06833cf0ba6448279b4dd325fddc9/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0932.jpg" data-mid="91711557" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/651e221af8bda3b6d10b32e0246bd204c8f06833cf0ba6448279b4dd325fddc9/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0932.jpg" /> I’ve visited the mountain village of Gressoney in Italy’s smallest region, the Aosta Valley, twice now. Each time I went, I went with the intention of getting out into the outdoors again in the middle of grey, sunless winter days spent inside at home. I went to change my scenery and my perspective. Gressoney in the Monte Rosa mountain massif is actually made up of two towns, or&nbsp;comunes in Italian, Gressoney-Saint-Jean and Gressoney-La-Trinité. The towns sit along a road heading North that bizarrely goes nowhere, stopping abruptly before the Swiss border. On the other side, in Switzerland, there’s the Matterhorn, and to the West, there’s Chamonix in France, so you know these mountains are in good company. It’s a place full of Germanic alpine houses and structures, all wood and stone and very cute. Smoke billows from chimnies, where the houses are planted amidst a mountain backdrop, winter-white surrounds and Christmas-sy pine trees. Walking from Gressoney-Saint-Jean to the Savoy Castle takes you up through a forest path overlooking these types of scenes. Snow sparkles on the ground when the sun shines bright and the joys of snowball fights, making snow angels, shuffling through feather-soft powder underfoot and sliding down soft hillsides on your bum all can be experienced here. On the other side of this walk, you’ll find the Savoy Castle, built by and named after Margherita of Savoy, Queen of Italy, who, according to legend, the margherita pizza was named after. Built in 1904 as a summer residence for the Queen and her consorts, it’s the perfect fairytale castle complete with turrets and stained glass windows. You can take a nice walk in the grounds around the castle or go inside and meander through the sumptuous rooms on a guided tour. Down to business and it’s time to go up the mountain! Start at the town of Staffal, a 15-minute drive from Gressoney, at the very end of the aforementioned road to nowhere. From here you can take the ski lift up to the Monte Rosa ski area. I’ve been to this town twice now and still never skiied the 100km+ of trails. Nevertheless, I’ve made it up the mountain in the lift both times to have a walk around and bask in the sun, though we did have a little shiba inu snow dog we were dogsitting in tow to keep us entertained. The real reason I’ve never made it onto the slopes here may be the presence of the Adler’s Nest rifugio (the Italian name for a snow shelter or hut). Nestled in the snowy mountainside at the base of one of the main tracks, adjoining the rifugio’s wood and stone hut is a two-storey sun terrace glorously positioned to receive the maximum amount of sunlight on those light and bright winter days. They serve good Italian mountain fare for lunch, where polenta smothered in local Italian fontina or pasta with bleu d’Aosta cheese is on the menu amongst other local specialties. Cold beer is available on tap with a range of interesting liquors handmade in house too. I’ve whiled away many hours here watching the skiiers ski their little hearts out and interesting characters come in and out for a break. Plan your Gressoney Trip here and I’ll meet you at the rifugio for a cold beer one day soon. Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/94129c8eec351378d8dbef6ba37d18bb21f7c619b891cb81e102d0ba8086dfb4/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3543.jpg" data-mid="91712151" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/94129c8eec351378d8dbef6ba37d18bb21f7c619b891cb81e102d0ba8086dfb4/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3543.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/831e93d895a2274660387136fe598dadb683110d1f0e5aa38c58ff7e3f2a9c71/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3538.jpg" data-mid="91712080" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/831e93d895a2274660387136fe598dadb683110d1f0e5aa38c58ff7e3f2a9c71/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3538.jpg" /> The walk from Gressoney-Saint-Jean to the Savoy Castle takes you up into the forest, overlooking scenery like this. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2e360b8c464e17fa40cebaa4640314775a809f4435c7c2246212f8d6833db8bc/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3551.jpg" data-mid="91712148" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2e360b8c464e17fa40cebaa4640314775a809f4435c7c2246212f8d6833db8bc/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3551.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ba9bcd2d099609eef5eb0e1fb03fe10c12eec5c505d453c80b65050acfc4d959/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3549.jpg" data-mid="91712150" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ba9bcd2d099609eef5eb0e1fb03fe10c12eec5c505d453c80b65050acfc4d959/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3549.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/843827435da0ec7f300286a6f1b2cc40a9185b1f66b0b5c68dd1bc8e985f2073/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3558.jpg" data-mid="91712866" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/843827435da0ec7f300286a6f1b2cc40a9185b1f66b0b5c68dd1bc8e985f2073/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3558.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9780b77c48d369e2af85896ff4d0f4e83ca361a118fa3136f54ff28fc92094ec/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3564.jpg" data-mid="91712867" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9780b77c48d369e2af85896ff4d0f4e83ca361a118fa3136f54ff28fc92094ec/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3564.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/28fc75fd5b95402e999b44dd44b483fbc6feab488a487e6aa075a00f7095c022/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3570.jpg" data-mid="91717090" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/28fc75fd5b95402e999b44dd44b483fbc6feab488a487e6aa075a00f7095c022/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3570.jpg" />Savoy Castle, summer residence of Queen Margherita of Italy built in 1904. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d6ef076fe1f4b1f1568281ccb79106e3a375e0c225e91d51897ef0f479465c04/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3572.jpg" data-mid="91713642" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d6ef076fe1f4b1f1568281ccb79106e3a375e0c225e91d51897ef0f479465c04/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3572.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b3424f670556fb7d4651c71b1fb4c458d7718566d8f6795a73aa6f54ce7f9fb9/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3565.jpg" data-mid="91717093" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b3424f670556fb7d4651c71b1fb4c458d7718566d8f6795a73aa6f54ce7f9fb9/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3565.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/229c082859bdbdc3f83b11f2d4944610b6040933226cf081fb91f3ad4466b8de/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3582.jpg" data-mid="92548525" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/229c082859bdbdc3f83b11f2d4944610b6040933226cf081fb91f3ad4466b8de/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3582.jpg" /> <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ecc04e8e5befacbea17e5024820ddb810e0ec0066fa9025662ae0dc751ed6645/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3679.jpg" data-mid="91733495" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ecc04e8e5befacbea17e5024820ddb810e0ec0066fa9025662ae0dc751ed6645/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-3679.jpg" />The ski lifts taking you up the mountain from Staffal. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/81b9ef858c8e6502ce3a25cd2670c6bdc0a4e6c105b8c74dcf2e27f92de2d68d/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0980.jpg" data-mid="91733765" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/81b9ef858c8e6502ce3a25cd2670c6bdc0a4e6c105b8c74dcf2e27f92de2d68d/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0980.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3e4e45d922e64af773a5c53fa56067500607d471b93d651a94104cf2c5e79d09/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0908.jpg" data-mid="91733768" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3e4e45d922e64af773a5c53fa56067500607d471b93d651a94104cf2c5e79d09/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0908.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8d434993f4186ca6daf1038389a11f75d40bc889dfe1b1bd2f4e08d62840de51/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0901.jpg" data-mid="91733766" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8d434993f4186ca6daf1038389a11f75d40bc889dfe1b1bd2f4e08d62840de51/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0901.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a7493ac1591cd9fb3d1acf2b50c41eb493e5d4a300e38a7b571261287c4454a8/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0906.jpg" data-mid="91733767" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a7493ac1591cd9fb3d1acf2b50c41eb493e5d4a300e38a7b571261287c4454a8/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0906.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3f5495693c25fc01d599abfc657cf9f47289221639c05bbe7095de662f381e28/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0924.jpg" data-mid="92541786" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3f5495693c25fc01d599abfc657cf9f47289221639c05bbe7095de662f381e28/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0924.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d1cf14c8cbca196784f85b8d37307943ccec89b06327c98f0edd4e177ddbdc49/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0912.jpg" data-mid="91734196" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d1cf14c8cbca196784f85b8d37307943ccec89b06327c98f0edd4e177ddbdc49/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0912.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c02e30e5b8b4a39c0c3a28d9c938f1369074860772ef0cd9fc1af4e7db0812b6/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0915.jpg" data-mid="91734197" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c02e30e5b8b4a39c0c3a28d9c938f1369074860772ef0cd9fc1af4e7db0812b6/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0915.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5d705a72a0e8d80980c27a242af7865f5cb0c8e90169d97c370d3c686f008d79/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0939.jpg" data-mid="91734259" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5d705a72a0e8d80980c27a242af7865f5cb0c8e90169d97c370d3c686f008d79/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0939.jpg" />Adler’s Nest, the rifugio that’s kept me far too full and entertained to try skiing here two years in a row now. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b763a79b7f1fa96a24d49971e2eaac2c113a05527b2a12639957b6cd6d7584b6/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0930.jpg" data-mid="91734256" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b763a79b7f1fa96a24d49971e2eaac2c113a05527b2a12639957b6cd6d7584b6/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0930.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5616d7b6e7e6029062e7c2cbb1692bc82495a4a860b9628808dacacb677336f3/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0927.jpg" data-mid="91734255" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5616d7b6e7e6029062e7c2cbb1692bc82495a4a860b9628808dacacb677336f3/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0927.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a992940c61da0bf56a78f1c6034cfd6cd1cea99223b821f69b7c5a986d664183/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0919.jpg" data-mid="92463480" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a992940c61da0bf56a78f1c6034cfd6cd1cea99223b821f69b7c5a986d664183/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0919.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/01f7c1050dc14eda3e706de16fb1fe3c0c018046eef310c005116766d290b091/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0944.jpg" data-mid="92548866" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/01f7c1050dc14eda3e706de16fb1fe3c0c018046eef310c005116766d290b091/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0944.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d7e4695e37cbfd3db4da843064d81a69bf2c0a3d530b20c4688d027c3e6d7a87/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0934.jpg" data-mid="91734258" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d7e4695e37cbfd3db4da843064d81a69bf2c0a3d530b20c4688d027c3e6d7a87/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0934.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c98b042e32e2f6eadfac52aaa27283b692065a490847f54c6f457174c661dbc1/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0946.jpg" data-mid="92462816" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c98b042e32e2f6eadfac52aaa27283b692065a490847f54c6f457174c661dbc1/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0946.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f99d66f131a7ce5c836ac1b599a5ed1af9e7a18111f8f25bbea44fbbe23afae3/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0951.jpg" data-mid="92462828" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f99d66f131a7ce5c836ac1b599a5ed1af9e7a18111f8f25bbea44fbbe23afae3/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0951.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/342b897969f3c62203cf0990730aa1ceddb3b0a0723af10118d4afc360a2fefb/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0935.jpg" data-mid="92541787" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/342b897969f3c62203cf0990730aa1ceddb3b0a0723af10118d4afc360a2fefb/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0935.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e93f515c4c159c68e4171bfaf5b1e958f210cef17ab8bede68980d0bd60de71e/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0957.jpg" data-mid="92462837" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e93f515c4c159c68e4171bfaf5b1e958f210cef17ab8bede68980d0bd60de71e/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0957.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/10b92dfb1afbb3b33b013bdfef7361bcc4ed3b5254c9410cf2df40848a2a6a35/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0965.jpg" data-mid="92462833" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/10b92dfb1afbb3b33b013bdfef7361bcc4ed3b5254c9410cf2df40848a2a6a35/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0965.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3383677d5aa8401723dc5874293fe46a9d7b0c4e0279ccf5b9c30a224a5aba36/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0949.jpg" data-mid="92463093" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3383677d5aa8401723dc5874293fe46a9d7b0c4e0279ccf5b9c30a224a5aba36/gressoney-saint-jean-aosta-valley-the-travelling-light-0949.jpg" /> https://thetravellinglight.com/Ayurvedic-Panchakarma-Retreat-in-Kerala-India Fri, 22 Jan 2021 16:27:17 +0000 The Travelling Light https://thetravellinglight.com/Ayurvedic-Panchakarma-Retreat-in-Kerala-India Bagni San Filippo Thermal Springs in Tuscany, ItalyAyurvedic Panchakarma Retreat in Kerala, India travel&nbsp; spirit&nbsp; ayurveda&nbsp; kerala&nbsp; india <img width="2075" height="3130" width_o="2075" height_o="3130" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4d69f12cb97cd210e7c1e29484dc6290b61211399df8a3597c5ae0f0e9182ad4/edited-34.jpg" data-mid="97506348" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4d69f12cb97cd210e7c1e29484dc6290b61211399df8a3597c5ae0f0e9182ad4/edited-34.jpg" />Photos and words by Katie McKnoulty I spent 21 days dialling my body back to its purest, most natural state doing an Ayurvedic Panchakarma detox program in an ashram in Kerala, India. Lying in my single bed at Poonthottam Ayurvedasram in Kerala, India, I hear the familiar sound of music somewhere in the distance and notice the sun turning golden. It's time for service at the nearby Hindu temple, where they broadcast prayer and song over a loudspeaker at sunrise and sunset. I imagine worshippers gathering there to pray before and after the material realities of the work day and I start to pay my respects each day at the same time. I piggyback off the spirit of words and songs I don't understand but certainly can feel. I'm here in the South of India to do a Panchakarma, a 21-day Ayurvedic detox program designed to bring your body, mind and spirit back to zero. Here they help you find that pure version of yourself that's inside somewhere underneath all the stress and pollution and emotional ups and downs and the not-so-healthy things you've been putting in your body. Poonthottam Ayurvedasram The setting in which you do a Panchakarma (or P.K. as the regulars like to call it) is just as important as what you do while you’re there. It's why Poonthottam, which translates to ‘flower garden’, finds itself in the middle of nature, to give you the chance to live in a sattvic, sanskrit for pure, environment. Being that close to the natural order of things you can’t help but remember the natural order of yourself too. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8842cc5ded4bb718757b70e20ebe5a851dbe3bb2e6816fc6ba61ddfe569dcfb6/edited-33.jpg" data-mid="96121128" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8842cc5ded4bb718757b70e20ebe5a851dbe3bb2e6816fc6ba61ddfe569dcfb6/edited-33.jpg" /> The centre is built on a base of dry, red dirt, down a long-dusty driveway off a main road going through town after town in India’s South. It's verging on monsoon season when I arrive in April so amidst the face-melting heat, there are afternoons of heavy rain and tropical storms bringing relief and reminding me of my sub-tropical Australian hometown. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5aec2dce807d43add6f30433a95067b65e0f1b6ab28c2842412b0058bc5ba293/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5290.jpg" data-mid="97506717" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5aec2dce807d43add6f30433a95067b65e0f1b6ab28c2842412b0058bc5ba293/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5290.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9de2d8b4bb8bc0d116f77b9bc74f1ec65ada7c4a5b94046fce622a53043ec719/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5241.jpg" data-mid="96121915" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9de2d8b4bb8bc0d116f77b9bc74f1ec65ada7c4a5b94046fce622a53043ec719/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5241.jpg" /> Poonthottam’s crowning glory, I discover as I walk out for the first time on my balcony, is a lily-covered lake fringed with palm trees. I come out on this balcony overlooking it every day at sunrise and sunset to connect to something bigger. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/9b030a4e1deabd41aa2d074b443fe5684ad8dcc4f91ece8fdce974503c13c88c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5425.jpg" data-mid="96121605" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/9b030a4e1deabd41aa2d074b443fe5684ad8dcc4f91ece8fdce974503c13c88c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5425.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/03627bb93df3d64f455933d2cd768d851945462e072426213e7c7ae87169ae5a/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5412.jpg" data-mid="96121592" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/03627bb93df3d64f455933d2cd768d851945462e072426213e7c7ae87169ae5a/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5412.jpg" /> What is Ayurveda? First things first, Ayurveda is an ancient Indian system of healing, directly translated to English it means ‘the science of life’; I’ve heard it referred to as ‘the art of living’ too. In Ayurveda, the emphasis is on disease prevention, keeping your body and health in balance in everyday life, though disease can also be effectively treated.Diagnosis is performed by holding the fingers to the wrist pulse and feeling and listening for signs of disease,&nbsp; or ‘dis-ease’ as they often call it in Ayurveda. Through this subtle sensing, imbalances in the mind and body can be detected at a very early stage, before the need for serious modern pharmaceuticals and their nasty side effects has arisen. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/82054dfdfce0f4d5f50a3073f94325234a51fc5af9d9cce18b257f9a9e0023f0/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5234.jpg" data-mid="96121588" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/82054dfdfce0f4d5f50a3073f94325234a51fc5af9d9cce18b257f9a9e0023f0/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5234.jpg" /> According to Ayurveda, on a scale of one to five, modern Western medicine can usually detect illness at stage three with modern diagnosis tools and technology. The symptoms and the illness have to be far enough along to show up on scanners and blood tests etc. By feeling the pulse, Ayurvedic doctors can diagnose imbalances at stages one and two, therefore making the remedies less harsh than modern pharmaceuticals, being mainly lifestyle and dietary-based, as well as using herbs and natural massage treatments. In Ayurveda, they try to catch and treat things early. <img width="3130" height="2075" width_o="3130" height_o="2075" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b2e9d12ed65a1c1690cb666854d4a2b0be4114f057441511b8807689c4772a59/edited-36.jpg" data-mid="96121129" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b2e9d12ed65a1c1690cb666854d4a2b0be4114f057441511b8807689c4772a59/edited-36.jpg" /> I can barely comprehend how someone could listen to a faint pulse and be able to tell things like ‘you hurt your eye brushing against a metal fence when you were a child’ or ‘your thyroid is starting to become overactive’ or ‘you’ve been experiencing some pain recently in your left elbow’ but I’ve heard of all these things being uttered in the Ayurvedic doctor’s chair. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b3d246a2c229e23f9dd94c513f79c6b9d519caa118d14c609a9efce4ec92a2a8/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5236.jpg" data-mid="96121589" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b3d246a2c229e23f9dd94c513f79c6b9d519caa118d14c609a9efce4ec92a2a8/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5236.jpg" /> One of the Ayurvedic doctors at Poonthottam. Another important aspect of Ayurveda is the concept of the doshas. In Ayurveda, there are three dominant types of doshas or constitutions: vata, pitta and kapha. Through pulse-reading, practitioners can ascertain the one or two (or sometimes even all three) doshas that you tend to be out of balance with. Vata is the qualities of air and ether, pitta is heat and water, and kapha, earth and water.And just like those elements, when the amount of air, ether, heat, water or earth is just right, in balance, it can be a good thing. When there’s too much or too little air, ether, heat, earth or water, it becomes a bad thing, an imbalance that must be corrected. You therefore adjust your lifestyle, diet, herbs and treatments according to what works best to keep that dosha in balance. The Doctor I see Dr. Ravi, for the first time and discover he's the father of a female Ayurvedic doctor I've seen many times in Ubud, Bali. I remember then that she was the one who recommended this place to me and I know I'm in good hands. He calmly takes my pulse, placing his fingers on my wrist. The watching female doctors-in-training and I waiting with baited breath for the verdict. He asks me if I have any ailments or troubles I want to share, some of them I’d rather not talk about in front of three strangers but I push on and divulge it all. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7ae6f74b0ae3fd860dc7426d0555994a6308aa856b5ae9963b777afbbd43ad2c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5294.jpg" data-mid="96121620" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7ae6f74b0ae3fd860dc7426d0555994a6308aa856b5ae9963b777afbbd43ad2c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5294.jpg" />Dr. Ravi, head practitioner at Poonthottam. A mild condition diagnosed four years ago in another Ayurvedic clinic in India as ‘very early stages’ has just started to show up for me more seriously for the first time as symptoms including insomnia. The doctor listens and takes my concerns seriously. It’s a relief after a Western doctor in Paris recently told me my test results fall ‘within the normal range’, even with numbers on the outer edge of the band. She told me I didn’t have a problem, even though the symptoms had started to affect my life in myriad ways.I’m prescribed various herbs to take in various orders and times of the day. I learn that most of these herbs used for medicines are cultivated and collected from the paddies and fields surrounding the ashram, processed in their own factories into tablets and powders. I also learn that the centre provides local disadvantaged people in the surrounding villages with free medicines and treatments at the Ayurvedasram. I get to meet some of these families in the waiting room. My treatment plan is written out, I’m advised of what to eat and not eat over the next few weeks, what to do, what not to do. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e8dc61b8e50a3233bb97178b938c47ffc3989d33a10bb4742fe6aea5dc68d0f7/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5295.jpg" data-mid="96121621" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e8dc61b8e50a3233bb97178b938c47ffc3989d33a10bb4742fe6aea5dc68d0f7/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5295.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f3be806eae3540fd58ce9f4e8235024a02b419c63e4c311cb80e5b21cab77d96/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5296.jpg" data-mid="96121622" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f3be806eae3540fd58ce9f4e8235024a02b419c63e4c311cb80e5b21cab77d96/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5296.jpg" /> The Community The first meal you share at a retreat is always a little awkward. You usually walk into a close-knit group. At least a few have already spent weeks together talking over every meal. It's hard to not feel like an outsider for a while. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b21b26d126a82346300c25d4fd703d6679766fe23c7d9a65b350b7f1471989dd/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5328.jpg" data-mid="97592239" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b21b26d126a82346300c25d4fd703d6679766fe23c7d9a65b350b7f1471989dd/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5328.jpg" />The familiar site of shoes off outside the dining room, you start to recognise people from their discarded shoes. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/03b1c018bfd6918168eecf2299b675f87e0b60a84f5e5abd607ba8f01e17ee63/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5329.jpg" data-mid="96122178" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/03b1c018bfd6918168eecf2299b675f87e0b60a84f5e5abd607ba8f01e17ee63/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5329.jpg" /> I walk in to have my first meal with almost no one around. This time I'm the first to arrive in a group of around seven, a small group growing and shrinking over the weeks ahead as people start and finish treatments. It's the end of the season so there aren’t many guests; the monsoon is imminent and they will close the centre soon for the season. People arrive and I introduce myself, asking them where they're from: Russia, Canada, Turkey, Belgium, Germany, India too. We all become close friends over the next few weeks together. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ed4b369bf81d75dbdf8e51180b23fdfd6e1f3fa041e787544ec9968b61d8e5eb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5233.jpg" data-mid="96121590" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ed4b369bf81d75dbdf8e51180b23fdfd6e1f3fa041e787544ec9968b61d8e5eb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5233.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/bb47689f80add5bab36f06c21eb31c5f272a6035a32b112be508aae6a6ad8e14/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5338.jpg" data-mid="96122179" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/bb47689f80add5bab36f06c21eb31c5f272a6035a32b112be508aae6a6ad8e14/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5338.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2785cc1d1a52468ff2f6a14878cbbe2c8cbcc7cf3a69aeda8fadb88d84a2abee/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5343.jpg" data-mid="96122180" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2785cc1d1a52468ff2f6a14878cbbe2c8cbcc7cf3a69aeda8fadb88d84a2abee/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5343.jpg" /> What do you eat? The food served at an Ayurvedic retreat is vital to your happiness over your time there. With not much else going on, mealtimes three times a day become the light of my life and the centre of my world. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/09fcbaf6c58a832dce2e7e6698f2fc054cd44f5c6d518c4992f54099ac5fafdf/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5214.jpg" data-mid="96121160" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/09fcbaf6c58a832dce2e7e6698f2fc054cd44f5c6d518c4992f54099ac5fafdf/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5214.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4307208f079015bf6b02fd96434c7c0354f255e24ff0f310c13557ef47f79001/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5206.jpg" data-mid="96121163" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4307208f079015bf6b02fd96434c7c0354f255e24ff0f310c13557ef47f79001/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5206.jpg" /> I’d heard the food at Poonthottam was good and I’d heard right. I arrive first at the table to eat every day and love every meal that’s put in front of me. With most of the ingredients grown on-site, every plate, or thali as they call it in India, served is made up of various small dishes neatly divided amongst mini steel bowls. We eat buttermilk soup, daal (a lentil soup/stew), fresh salads, red rice, papadums, dosas (pancakes made from mung beans and rice batter), chutnies, vegetable subjis (vegetables stirfried with spices). To drink, there’s herbal water a strange shade of deep red and fresh Kerala coconuts to be sipped from a metal straw. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ad9faad0e617350caf9641ed9fa61077980b5aad7fa5cb4a7d5e706b12175e0c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5216.jpg" data-mid="96121165" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ad9faad0e617350caf9641ed9fa61077980b5aad7fa5cb4a7d5e706b12175e0c/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5216.jpg" /> The head chef takes requests and remembers our various dietary restrictions day in and day out. She starts to feel like a caring mother, giving looks of disapproval when someone asks for something they shouldn’t be eating, scolding others for not eating enough, gleefully dishing out second helpings of her delicious food when asked. What do you do all day?The days melt into one another in a good way on a Panchakarma. I live the same blissful, indulgent day over and over again. My life takes on a different quality, where a focus on the self and doing only what I want to do in every moment around the light schedule of yoga, massage and mealtimes becomes my new normal. It’s a feeling I’ve rarely experienced since childhood and wow, does it feel good; it’s healing in itself. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4ae466511480769799248cbc097a10686b8d51b595f5107750f8c040cedbb701/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5055.jpg" data-mid="96121149" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4ae466511480769799248cbc097a10686b8d51b595f5107750f8c040cedbb701/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5055.jpg" /> There are rules you’re supposed to follow, in order to maintain the unadulterated vibe of your stay: don’t watch TV, don’t work, don’t read anything too violent or upsetting, don’t engage in sexual activity, don’t sleep during the day and don’t snack. So what do you do in the absence of all these things that usually fill our days? <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d074fde1929ff28428760efb41ce3a2cf44ced0c5140cba5927fc0eef75e4bfd/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5017.jpg" data-mid="97895081" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d074fde1929ff28428760efb41ce3a2cf44ced0c5140cba5927fc0eef75e4bfd/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5017.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e20a731518edb0f936b8ae073b8e239cc136fe7cda5a8d493703ae42afa8df3f/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5035.jpg" data-mid="97592231" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e20a731518edb0f936b8ae073b8e239cc136fe7cda5a8d493703ae42afa8df3f/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5035.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f2c557a3853b51f9cb6a1ba5455f59727afbc4a1d700d99f7f5d7bce04fc890a/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5066.jpg" data-mid="96121150" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f2c557a3853b51f9cb6a1ba5455f59727afbc4a1d700d99f7f5d7bce04fc890a/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5066.jpg" /> Treatments Every day, once a day, in the morning, the same two female therapists come knocking at my door. They bring the massages to you here with a treatment room attached to your room.There are various treatments prescribed by the doctor according to your imbalances and predominant doshas. I lie naked, except for a small disposable g-string, on a wooden table as the technicians pour hot buttermilk over my body in a continuous stream, pour hot oil over my heart and third eye in the middle of my forehead. One day, I sit in a sweat box with just my head sticking out the top. One treatment everyone is prescribed is the abhayanga: a massage performed in synchronised unison by two technicians. With sweeping strokes over your entire body from head to feet and a herbal medicated oil, they push the toxins out of your body through your extremities, calming your nervous system and nourishing your muscles and organs. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b18d98b3104ba78fd945f722b96fef214946b80445980049f8baabb54775d7cb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5318.jpg" data-mid="96121593" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b18d98b3104ba78fd945f722b96fef214946b80445980049f8baabb54775d7cb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5318.jpg" /> The other treatment common to all Panchakarma programs is the dreaded basti, an oil enema, the subject of many a (thankfully) after-dinner strategy and FAQ session amongst guests. After weeks of preparing your body with yoga, light foods and herbal water, the moment will come when the technicians ask you to roll over onto your side so they can insert the enema tube. This is the ultimate detox and after a few not-so-fun ensuing hours or sometimes days where everything is flushed out of you, you feel incredibly clear and light at the end of the whole ordeal. After every treament session, one of the ladies performs a blessing for me and smears a circle with a bright red powder in the middle of my forehead. It’s a special and intimate moment and I thank her profusely every time. Yoga and Meditation Every day at just after and before sunset, a gentle yoga class is held in the main hall with a short meditation session afterwards. Never one to wake up with the birds in my real life, the effect of waking at dawn for the morning yoga class in particular, experiencing the quietness of this time of day has a very powerful effect on me. I don’t make it to every yoga class though and you’re never expected to be there. Some days I prefer to practice alone in my room, going slow, lingering a long time on my mat, writing a little after my session. Walks and Trips Spending 21 days, eating three-meals-a-day with someone naturally sees them turn from stranger to friend. Some days are a little harder on a Panchakarma. Your physical body as well as your mental, emotional and spiritual bodies are all going through a deep cleanse and uncomfortable emotions naturally arise. You’re all doing the same thing together, experiencing the same phenomenon and you can’t help but form deep bonds by the end of it all. We listen to each other with open ears and offer counsel on everything from life to relationship to health issues.We connect not only over meals but also through clandestine trips into town on the bus (you’re not supposed to leave the centre), permitted gentle walks in the surrounding fields of green and the occasional (again, not recommended) movie night to watch something unstimulating like a nature documentary or a romantic comedy in someone’s room. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/433c91711ccf098b506daf05e9bce2e864e09b0e995c3c12f2d1e28f8a624a06/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5373.jpg" data-mid="96122183" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/433c91711ccf098b506daf05e9bce2e864e09b0e995c3c12f2d1e28f8a624a06/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5373.jpg" />My Russian friend and her incredible long ponytail. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/054b14e0497f804794b7634fb8d587bf75c1fbab7a92b7f6ea724218a6563ec8/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5357.jpg" data-mid="96122181" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/054b14e0497f804794b7634fb8d587bf75c1fbab7a92b7f6ea724218a6563ec8/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5357.jpg" /><img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a3abf508fd9035b23120b2474c9b8884a48ecc3e74382c3da4a3daaa443a9bad/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5360.jpg" data-mid="96122182" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a3abf508fd9035b23120b2474c9b8884a48ecc3e74382c3da4a3daaa443a9bad/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5360.jpg" /><img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7015882ebaf7a3f07fd606379714a71a16f25203272f4c1507a1cef5afb1fa53/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5247.jpg" data-mid="96121759" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7015882ebaf7a3f07fd606379714a71a16f25203272f4c1507a1cef5afb1fa53/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5247.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2f83fa9f59d1a9addf4154215645fd6658a7d9ed8a5b60fa4278dbd05051ee75/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5254.jpg" data-mid="96121758" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2f83fa9f59d1a9addf4154215645fd6658a7d9ed8a5b60fa4278dbd05051ee75/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5254.jpg" /> <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f47d375cd021efd8e7cb3e1bd3d8fd22642a8747d8d19de5196bea03b8eae324/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5269.jpg" data-mid="96121913" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f47d375cd021efd8e7cb3e1bd3d8fd22642a8747d8d19de5196bea03b8eae324/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5269.jpg" /> Vedic Astrology ReadingsMany of us jump to book a Hindu Vedic astrology reading when the opportunity arises for the Jyotish astrologer to come visit for an extra fee. The signs and system themselves are quite different from the Western astrology I know, nonetheless my reading is very accurate, personal and insightful. I learn the Sun God in Hinduism, Shiva, is very important for me. I’m told to listen to Shiva mantras, songs, regularly and take Sundays off from work and housework. I’m unsure about the Sunday idea but immediately make a Spotify playlist after the session that I love listening to.&nbsp; The most profound experience from this reading is when the astrologer walks me through the timeline of my life though. We go through all the years preceding the session, he makes sense of what happened to me, and why, at every age. He tells me about all the important periods of my life yet to come and what I will do, leading up to 80 years when I ask him to stop. He divines my line of work and sums up my personality correctly and gives me tips on how to move forward. Although this astrologer is Indian and from a very different culture from my own, I still feel that he understands me and helps me to understand myself better, just from reading my chart and sitting with me for an hour on my balcony. <img width="1333" height="2000" width_o="1333" height_o="2000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a906121bfcff640c10ecca9b05a812b7ff232360a2d494b240035efc5299e225/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5075.jpg" data-mid="96121787" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a906121bfcff640c10ecca9b05a812b7ff232360a2d494b240035efc5299e225/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5075.jpg" /> I mercifully start to sleep soundly and deeply again towards the end of my 21 days at Poonthottam. One of the doctors comes to visit me in my room to check on me. She tells me gently that in my case, she can see that the imbalances in my body are due to a too-chaotic lifestyle and by letting my emotions rule my life. She tells me I need to learn to process them better, to not hold onto them and to not take everything so seriously. The pressure and stress is created and controlled by me. I can choose to change my lifestyle, slow down, take things more lightly and take the pressure off myself. It’s something I take away with me and try to remember and live as much as I can now. <img width="2000" height="1333" width_o="2000" height_o="1333" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/eb15bbe86f394a3662ee7305e4f873500a8f8e675333210c198b3885157d78fb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5421.jpg" data-mid="96121591" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/eb15bbe86f394a3662ee7305e4f873500a8f8e675333210c198b3885157d78fb/panchakarma-detox-kerala-india-the-travelling-light-5421.jpg" /> I believe so fully in the concepts Ayurveda promotes: making your health a lifelong commitment, not just something you only think about when you’re sick. I believe the mind, body and spirit are always giving us signs. Illness, unwanted symptoms and imbalance are signs that something in our life is not working for us. At the end of the day, it happens that we can get sick for no reason at all. We can’t always control what happens to us. But I do believe that we can do our best to keep our health in check and to support ourselves to lead healthy, happy lives. Doing an Ayurvedic Panchakarma allows us to live this unrealistically pure life for a few weeks so we have a good baseline to start from when we go back home. It shows us how good we can feel when we put the right things in our bodies and look after ourselves, so that we can go back to our lives and try to live a little in that spirit every day. - Poonthottam Ayurvedasram is located in Kerala, India, near Cherpalcherry in Palakkad. For more details, visit their website.